1 year down. 1 year to go!

Typed: 6/5-6/2011

Today is our 1 year anniversary living in Mongolia! And we’ve left for China! The train isn’t so bad at all. I’m pretty sure we got 2nd class tickets instead of 1st because there are some way nicer compartments than ours-- but ours definitely aren’t as bad as the 3rd class we took to Sukhbaataar a couple of weeks ago. 2nd class is very comfortable. Here are a couple of reminders for the next time we take the train:

Bring your own toilet paper!
Bring wet wipes
Snacks, water, more snacks!!
Books to read

We were put in a compartment with an older man and his grandson. They both are Mongolians who know English and seem to be well traveled. We played many rounds of Texas Hold ’Em and other various card games. Davaadash (the grandfather) , was traveling with his wife, children and other grandchildren to visit a son who is a consulate living in China. They were in other compartments, but came in and out of ours to play with the white folks, or to talk. Davaadash got Justin to sing a Mongolian song with him on the train. I think he was impressed with Justin. There were some uncomfortable times but all in all, the 30 hour train ride wasn’t so bad….but maybe would have been better in 1st class.

Crossing the border into China was pretty awesome. The last Mongolian town we went through was Zamiin Uud and it’s quite a desolate and sandy place (comparable to Mandalgov--our town), but almost immediately after crossing the border into the Chinese side there were trees, flower gardens and even classical music blasting from speakers to welcome us (at least that’s what I think the music was for). It was a little eerie, but nice at the same time. It was like 10pm at night when we went through that Chinese town.

So, we stopped for 2 hours in Erenhot in Inner Mongolia, China. The train had to change its wheels so most passengers got off to walk around Erenhot and stretch their legs. Well, Justin and I were starving. We knew we had about 2 hours (but by Mongolian time it could mean anywhere from 45 mins to 3 hours) so we felt a little flustered and rushed in our first Chinese city ever! And….we ended up eating at a Mongolian restaurant. Call us crazy, because we totally are. Who hops the border from Mongolia to China and immediately eats at a Mongolian restaurant??? These guys. Us. Sad and pathetic, I know. We were rushed and we know absolutely no Mandarin, but we do know Mongolian. So we were able to talk to some friendly Mongolians at the restaurant and help several other travelers (some Irish men) with the menu and ordering. I’m still shaking my head that this was our first meal in China.

We got back on the train around 12:30 am and I had one of the best sleeps in the last 2 weeks. I still woke up at 6:30 though (dang sun getting up at 4am!!). We had breakfast and lunch on the train. (They didn’t feed us meals while in Mongolia, but in China we got served TWO meals!) Almost to Beijing.

Training: Complete

6/4/2011

So Justin and I spent the last two weeks in Darkhan attending training on how to be trainers for the new Peace Volunteers that will be coming to serve in Mongolia tomorrow (for 2 years). We worked hard days, but I am not complaining at all. It was great to feel like we’re getting something done and to stay completely busy. Also it was magical, just magical being in an apartment! This is the apartment Justin and I will call home this summer (until mid August). It is going to be soooooo hard going back to ger living. So hard.

The food here is great! I’ve had yummy yogurt with walnuts and cranberries (just like I used to have every morning in the States!!). Also, Justin and I were told of a place that had Dr. Pepper! This is the first ever DP I’ve seen in Mongolia! And you better believe we bought the store out. We also have a TV. We get one English channel-- which is CNN! So, I’ve been quite spoiled because my morning and night routine now includes watching World News on CNN.

I know Darkhan is sounding like a dreamland to you, it is! They even have a restaurant called Texas. Yep. There were a few evenings when Justin and I wanted dinner and said, “Let’s go to Texas”. It sounded awesome to just say it. “Okay, Let’s go to Texas”-- Like we were going home. We spent our 5th year Wedding Anniversary in/at Texas last Friday (May 27th). And another tid-bit of awesomeness-- a store here carries Jalapeños! They will definitely be bought out by the end of the summer!

We’re leaving for UB this afternoon, then tomorrow morning Justin and I are off to China via the Trans-Siberian Railway.

Ready, set, go!

And we're off!

We've made our way to Sukhbaatar in Selenge, Mongolia. It is beautiful here! Justin and I took the train from UB- Sukhbaatar. We boarded at 9pm on Tuesday and got to Nadra's apartment at about 5am on Wednesday. Justin and I thought we'd brave 3rd class (even though we'd heard to avoid it). We figured since we are traveling together that it wouldn't be so bad with a partner. And it really wasn't bad. It wasn't comfortable by all means, but it wasn't bad and definitely worth the money we saved from not going on 1st or even 2nd class.

Here's a picture of the inside of 3rd class. There are seats for 8 people per compartment, but we only had 2 other people in our compartment.

There were 6 beds available in our compartment. I took a bottom bed while Justin bunked up top. He strapped himself in with the straps to make sure he didn't roll off the bed during the night.

The beds were just boards (what we were expecting), but no bedding whatsoever was provided (not what we were expecting). There wasn't any heat on and it was a very cold night. :(

But, we made it! And we're here! And it doesn't look like Mongolia to us. There are trees, and grass and actual houses! I've only seen a handful of gers. Which is opposite in Mandalgovi (you'd see thousands of gers, but a handful of houses). Since the town is very close to the Russian border the town has a lot of Russian influence. It is a really cute town.
Here are a couple pictures from Nadra's 5th floor apartment:

Here's Justin and Nadra. Justin was pretty excited to see some fish available at the local market.

Look what I found!

I was so excited when I stepped foot into Nadra's apartment in Sukhbaatar, Mongolia-- even though I was severely sleep deprived from an overnight train ride.
Yes, while I'm here visiting her I don't mind being the weird cat-lady! I love them! It is so weird to be able to show my crazy excitement for them because Mongolians hate cats. I'm not talking about oh-I'm-just-not-a-cat-person type hate. I'm talking about screaming-scared-for-your-life type hate. They can transfer evil spirits, or bad luck. I have yet to meet a Mongolian who likes cats.
Nadra's kitties:

Oh, but it's been sooo long since I've been with a cat! It's been a year now when I had to leave Annie behind. I can't believe it's been that long!
My Annie:

Getting your Chinese Visa in Mongolia

I've been planning for this trip for a while. I did all my research on getting a Chinese Visa, the sites we want to see, the prices, the transportation, etc. I got all the paperwork in order and we got it all printed out (a few times, because...well, just because that's how it goes here in Mongolia).

Justin spent a good portion of the day on Friday running around UB trying to make things possible for us to get our Visas, but really ended up not doing anything because he found out that we needed to get our train ticket information (our way out of Mongolia & into China) for our visit application.

Problem: You can't buy train tickets in Mongolia more than a day in advance. So how can we get our train ticket receipt to show the Embassy in enough time to process our Visas? You have to go through a travel agency. I hate travel agencies. The reason is because they're over-priced. But I do understand that they take away a lot of the headache that planning your own trip can give. So...I was about to give in when......UB Guesthouse saved our lives.

There, on the door of their building, was a flyer saying they'd help with train tickets & visa-- perfect! And it was, they printed out everything we needed then said, 'you're done'. So all the running around Justin did the other day was sadly for nothing, but we went to the Chinese Embassy this morning and pretty much just went in and out. They took all our application papers, pictures, train ticket in, flight ticket out, and our hostel information while we in China. We can pick up our visas next Monday.

It wasn't so bad. Really.

UB Guesthouse has been good to us. We have a private room here, good pillows, hot showers, toilets, they've done our laundry, and now pretty much sealed our deal with our train tickets and visa application. Though, Khongor Guesthouse will always be my 1st choice. UB Guesthouse is a tough competitor.

Wrapping Up the School Year

All the schools in Mongolia start September 1st and end on June 1st. There are 2 and a half weeks of school left. But Justin and I are a little lucky and get to venture into UB tomorrow. It seems like this trip crept up on us-- yet couldn't get here fast enough!

It seems that we're leaving when we're just getting started. I feel like I have so many things that I am going to leave undone and waiting for me when we return. We'll come back to Mandalgovi on June 20th for a short couple weeks. Then the next time we come back won't be until the new school year starts (and we'll have some lucky new Volunteers at our site!). Wrapping up everything is difficult. Yesterday my 7th grade students (whom I LOVE) wanted so badly to talk to me (in English!) the whole class period because they knew they wouldn't see me for a while. I told them about all the traveling I was going to be doing (our lesson was about traveling) and tried to fit in as much of a lesson as I could-- but at the end they gathered around me and wanted a picture to be taken. I almost started tearing up after the picture when they, one by one, came up to me to say 'goodbye, see you next year!' Man, what will it be like a year from now when we are saying goodbye forever?

I have a meeting with Peace Corps and the Ministry of Education (the head honchos of Education in Mongolia) on Friday morning in UB. Then on Monday Justin and I will be buying our ticket to Beijing and going to the Chinese Embassy for our visa application. It takes a total of 4 days to get our Chinese Visa. Then we have a few days before our Training of Trainers (since Justin and I will both be trainers for the new Peace Corps Volunteers this summer), we will visit our friend, Nadra, in Selenge. Selenge is straight north of us, and very close to the Russian border. I hear it's a drastic change of scenery from the Gobi. They have trees, I hear. :)

Finishing with TOT (Training of Trainers) Justin and I will be waiting at Chinggis Airport on June 4th for those new M22's coming in fresh from America! It's really weird to think I was in their shoes one year ago.

Straight from the Airport Justin and I will head to the train station and be on our great Asian Adventure!

So, here's to one more night using a jorlon (outhouse), washing my hair in a bucket, cleaning sand out of my ears (literally) and sleeping in a sleeping bag! We'll be in a real bed, with toilets, showers(...I don't even know which I am more excited about anymore. It used to be the good food in UB, but now I think the toilet is trumping over it all.).

And just one more snapshot of our weather for today... It's just geting worse and worse, man. It feels like 8 outside on May 11th! We've been getting hit by sandstorm after sandstorm. It's not fun. They don't have sandstorms up north! Goodbye Gobi Desert weather! Khongor Guesthouse here we come!

***Edited: Khongor Guesthouse once again has let us down. They're full and don't have beds available...so we're off to our second Guesthouse choice! UB Guesthouse!***

A visit to the Gobi Desert-- Camels!

Ashlee & Scott Burt came to visit us down here in the Gobi for a few days. They have been here a year longer than we have and will be going back to America in about a month (Congrats to you!). They came down here for the Gobi experience. It was fun to have them here and be able to show them a little bit around the Gobi.

I told my teachers at school that some friends were coming down and wanted to see camels. Once I said that teacher after teacher came up to me 'My family lives only 30 kilometers away', 'My family lives int he countryside with many camels', 'My mother milks camels about 45 kilometers away', etc. I loved how eager they all were to help me. So, we piled in Erkham's (our hashaa father) car and set off to somewhere uncertain in the Gobi. We had two little girls with us 'leading the way' (as much as they could lead the way, there are no roads and herders are nomads moving a lot in the warmer months). We somehow got to where we wanted to go and got to see baby camels, big camels, baby goats, goats, and a weird sheep that just stared at us from the distance. I don't know what his problem was. I think we concluded that he was a retarded sheep-- because he did not move a muscle the whole time we were there. I found it amazing so I took a picture. But it was deleted on accident. Anyway, We were welcomed by an excited Emee (grandmother) with milk tea galore, some bortsik (fried dough) and some oodom (milk fat). I wish, now, that I would have gotten a picture with her.

Just stopping in the middle of nowhere:

Happy Cinco de Mayo!

I know, I know-- I'm posting too many weather reports on here-- But, it's just blowing my mind! It's like we hit a nice warm high of 70 degrees once in mid April and since then it's been downhill. I mean, it feels like freaking 14 degrees outside right now. Why did the weather even begin to get warmer in March in the first place if it was just going to go back down? The last couple of weeks have felt more like February than April-- and it's May! Needless to say, the sandstorms do not help whatsoever.

Well, I have a few more things I'd like to post, but school is beckoning me to make the trek in 38 mph wind.

"My Sister's baby was born!"

My sister had a baby boy! So I am yet again an Auntie. She had him late at night on April 26th Mongolian time. The next day I was so excited to tell my teachers. I teach an English & Methodology class to Primary teachers twice a week. I speak only English to them during the lesson, but at the end of each lesson I talk to them in Mongolian to see how they are, get updates about school gossip and tell them what's going on in my life, etc. Well at the end of this class I said, "Last night my sister's baby was born!" I only said it that way because I didn't know how to say, "My sister had a baby!" in Mongolian-- But that started a lot of confusion. My teachers were confused if my sister had the baby or my sister's baby had the baby. So we drew pictures on the board-- which caused even more confusion until the pictures became more detailed and there was a woman giving birth on our class chalkboard. It was all hilarious really! But, now I know how to say "My sister had a baby!"

Congratulations Nita & Chad & Madison and Happy birthday, Lincoln!

Unfortunately, I will have to miss the Royal Wedding. I'm sorry, William.

But the weather outside is just too bad for me to leave my royal ger. I poked my head out and this is what I saw:

Here's the weather report:

Things Spring in Mongolia has taught me:

Never put your lip gloss on before your walk to school. My once shiny lips were turned to sandpaper during the course of my 3 minute walk to school. No body likes sandy lips.

I love not having to make a fire! Clean hands, non-smoke-smelling clothes and hair and ultimately a dust & soot free ger!

Electricity is not always a part of daily life. It comes and it goes. Sometimes in the middle of making dinner.

Despite the wind, sandstorms, and occasional snow it is a heck of a lot better than winter.

Dogs have strong lungs. Now that it's warmer they've started to bark again and there are a couple dogs that every time they bark Justin and I look at each other in amazement. How does he bark so fast and continuously for so long without taking a breath? And what IS he barking at at 12am?

Going to the jorlon (outhouse) will never be a comfortable experience. In the winter all the human waste is frozen over so there is no smell...but the cold numbs your bum to the point of frost bite (not really, but it's dang cold!); I always held it in until the last minute because I just didn't want to go outside to go. BUT, now the weather provides a pleasant temperature, however the waste has unfrozen and the smell is...well, not good.

What a Whirlwind Spring is! (and our Asian Vacation Plans)

Read it and weep-- because I almost am.

This has been by far the sandiest day yet, and we've had some pretty dang sandy days. This sandstorm has been going on for two days straight. Tomorrow it's supposed to die down. I hope it does soon. I don't like being sandy. When I came home from school today I had a 'tumpin' bath. First I wash my face in the bowl of water, then I wash my hair. Well, after I was finished with those two things there was already a thin layer of sand at the bottom of the bowl. It's brutal out there right now.

Speaking of whirlwinds...Man, time has flown by. We've done so much in the past couple of weeks that I don't know where to start.

First of all, we had our 2nd Annual Spelling Bee. It was really fun to organize. All of the schools in my town competed (we have 5 schools). We even had a Spelling Bee for the teachers and they loved it! They all did a great job. We were really lucky that the Education Department funded our awards and certificates for the top 3 winners in every grade level. Next year they suggested that all the schools in our province be invited. I love that they had such a great time and want this competition to continue.

Here's a funny story to go along with this. Each of the PCVs in my town helped create word lists for certain grade levels. One of Justin's grade levels was 9th grade. We started each Spelling Bee with simple words (to build confidence in the students). When Justin was making his list (a week or so before the Spelling Bee) he asked if he should put the word 'rubber' on the list. I know we have non-American English speakers that read this blog and to you this doesn't seem funny-- because in all other English speaking countries a rubber is an eraser. But to us Americans, a rubber is a condom. And we are immature Americans. We teach from British ESL Books, so the students learn that a rubber is an eraser (not a condom), so to them this word is quite normal. I told Justin that it was his list and he could put whatever words he wanted on it. Okay, let's fast-forward to the day of the Spelling Bee. Justin is the 'reader' and I am sitting next to him being the 2nd judge. My student comes to the podium and Justin says 'Please spell rubber'. A smile broke out and I tried so hard to stifle a giggle, which made Justin giggle and we had to pause the Bee for about 1 minute or so until our immature minds were able to settle down. It was a little embarrassing, but funny at the same time. Here's a picture of the 'rubber' moment.

These are the 7th grade Spelling Bee participants:

7th grade winners:

All Student winners:

Megan and I passing out awards:

My teachers waiting for the Teacher's Spelling Bee to begin:

Well, Justin and I have about a month and a week until our big Asian vacation. I tell you, it has been the HARDEST thing to put together. We love to travel, but it can be so expensive. So, it's important to find ways to save money while traveling. We're not doing any tours (we don't like them, plus they are pretty expensive), so I've had to research the cities, the histories, the tourist spots myself online and how to go about seeing everything we want to see without being part of a long, expensive tour group. Which has proven to be difficult because we're working with three different languages/currencies. I typed the master plan out and have saved all the important websites. So if you are ever wanting to vacation in Japan, China or South Korea and don't want to waste money on an inclusive vacation package, let me know and I will give all of this information to you-- it was so dang difficult to find everything I needed online (and in English!).

Here's our plan:
We want to take the Tran-Siberian train from Ulaanbaatar to Beijing. We'll stay 4 days in Beijing, see all the major sites (including the Great Wall-- we will actually be going through the Great Wall on our train ride from Mongolia to China-- which is a 30 hour ride!--, but we want to see it again up close and personal). Then we're off to Tokyo via airplane. We'll stay a couple days in Tokyo, then take the speed train to Fukuoka, Japan where we will stay a day, then take the Ferry to South Korea. We'll have a day on the beach in Busan, South Korea, then venture on the speed train to Seoul. This is our relaxing point. I want to go to spa after spa and shop and maybe go to a theme park, and hike. After about 4 days in South Korea we are back on our way to Ulaanbaatar via plane.

If that's confusing to follow, here's a map that gives you a visual. I think I should get into the Travel Agent business! It was hours of work, and I mean HOURS. But, I did enjoy it and now everything is ready for us. There won't be anything to stress about on our great Asian Vacation!

"...Sometimes there just aren't enough rocks"

Forrest Gump is my all time favorite movie. That tape (yes, in 2000 VCRs were still the top media players) remained in my TV/VCR combo for an entire summer on replay. I listened to it when I was brushing my teeth, I listened to it while I was talking on the phone, I even fell asleep to it most nights. I don't know why I did it--I'm weird I guess. But I'm sure I've seen it over 100 times, seriously. So, it's not difficult for me to think up quotes from the movie that are related to my life.

For instance, "I guess sometimes there just aren't enough rocks."

How perfect is this quote for Mongolia?! When we first arrived in Mongolia we were told to always carry rocks with us in our pockets or have some in our purse/bags so we could always be prepared. 'For what', you may ask?
Dogs.

Now, on my way to school (or anywhere outside of my hashaa) I have to walk by this mean black dog. I see him everyday. I've seen him everyday for about 7 months now and he's still not too friendly with me. The picture above is my rock pile that I take 3 rocks out of everyday as I slip through our hashaa door and into the mean black dog's hashaa. Sometimes I throw rocks at him, sometimes I don't-- it all depends on how feisty he's feeling that day-- if he decides to run after me or not. Then everyday when I walk back through his hashaa and into mine I throw my rocks back in my rock pile to use for the next day.

Well recently I've been noticing my rocks disappearing. My pile has gone from about 20 to about 5. What's going to happen when my rock pile runs out? More importantly who's found my stash??

Today was a great end to a great and relaxing weekend. It was rather chilly this weekend and very windy. I was able to get some school work done (I'm actually supposed to be working on it right now and finishing up, but found myself catching up on Shine and piddling around on my blog). Justin just made a great all wood fire (I love that smell!!!-- as opposed to dung fires), I have a pearberry candle glowing, my warm fleece jumper zipped up tight and a hot cup of pineapple tea. Now, I suppose it's time to get back to work.

Earth Day 2011

I just had a teachers meeting where I brought up some activities for the school to do in order to participate in Earth Day. I printed out some activities from the internet and handed them out for my teachers to look over. Then I started my convincing spiel. And blabbed on for a good few minutes because I really wanted to convince them to participate. I went on about how important it is not to litter and what can happen when there is too much litter, etc. When I finished I asked what they thought and one of my teachers said, "Don't worry, Ashlie. Ok, our school does many things in the April to clean earth." It seems that every Saturday in April is dedicated to picking up trash around the town to beautify Mandalgovi. Also, she said that two trees are planted every year in April by the gardening club students. Man, I feel like I've got it easy at my school. I seriously have one of the best school in Mongolia, I'm sure.

I missed last Saturday's picking up trash...but I'm going to be prepared this Saturday! I wonder why they didn't tell me about it??

Flat Stanley

I had another visitor come to my ger yesterday. Flat Stanley! For those of you who aren't familiar with the book or the project check it out here. It's pretty cool. I wish I would have done something like this with my students back in the states.

Basically, Stanley is a character from a book. The 'project' is to find all the benefits of being completely flat (he was flattened by a board in the book). So one of the major and most popular benefits is that it is a lot cheaper for him to travel. And now the project turns into something similar as the traveling gnome. So, a friend of my sister's sent Flat Stanley to Mongolia to visit me.

Here are some pictures of his visit:
This was Stanley when he got to my ger last night.

Here's Stanley standing next to Chingis Khan and other Traditional Mongolian art. He had to change his clothing, because it's a bit colder here in Mongolia-- also the clothing is to show the students back in America a little bit more about the Mongolian culture. He is wearing a dell (Mongolian traditional clothing).

Stanley got a little bored and wanted to take advantage of this ridiculously warm spring weather we're having right now and made some friends at the play ground by my school.
.

Finally, we made it to school. I think these girls had a crush on him.

This was a really cute project. I hope Stanley makes it back to his class in America soon.