No, wait... putting them back on

So, spring's here. And it looks something like this.

The annual miracle of new life and warmer weather was abruptly crushed by something akin to what the families of the Dust Bowl may have endured. As Ashlie wrote in her previous blog, yesterday was brilliant. The sun was shining, the air was calm, and hope was springing forth in the form of a 44 degree high temperature. Everywhere life was awakening from it's winter slumber and beaming forth. It was the type of day that would make the crippled cast off their wheelchairs and walk. Then there was today.

I first noticed the impending doom from my second story classroom window while waiting on my Saturday tutoring students to come. On the horizon their was building a large cloud of dust. I had a quick vision of the apocalypse and then my students arrived. Near the end of our lesson one of students looked out from the window and astutely observed, "Mohai (ugly)." It was indeed mohai. Sand was whipping across the streets, people were running for shelter and I dismissed class.

On the walk home I didn't see many people. People were huddled together in pairs with their backs against southward facing walls. Other unfortunates like myself scurried across open areas like cockroaches on the bathroom floor of my college apartment. Finally I made it home to the warmth of my ger and wife.

Fast forward to a little later in the day. Ashlie and I were curled up on the bed watching a movie. In the film, the protagonist is gradually becoming insane. I don't know if I've ever been more empathetic to a character. The wind was driving me out of f***ing mind. The ger was raising up a little with every gust. Things were falling from the ceiling and the windows were rattling. One of the panes eventually fell to the floor and shattered. I, with my quick thinking, devised a strategy to begin shouting a string of obscenities that was so powerful it would curtail the wind and alter the atmospheric conditions into a more favorable state. It failed.

So I grabbed the duct tape and covered the hole. I remember in kindergarten learning the saying "March comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb." I guess the lion is here.

I'm taking my clothes off!

This is what I'm missing from back home. Soon most of Texas will be covered by her legendary bluebonnets.

Speaking of soon...I think soon I shall be taking off some excess layers of clothing. (For the past 3 months I have been wearing two pairs of pants, at least three pairs of socks, at least two shirts, a sweater, two jackets, gloves, a hat, a hood and a scarf wrapped around it all covering everything but my eyes-- then to top it, I usually have my sunglass on so no part of my skin is visible) I can't believe that the temperature here got so warm yesterday! After school (around 4pm) I took a walk 'downtown' to pick up some grocery items and I felt naked. My head wasn't covered, my face wasn't covered, my neck wasn't covered. It was just me in my one jacket. While I walked it was very pleasant and I realized it right away because that walk is usually a painful one (the bitter cold burning your skin, the blasting wind holding back your steps, the sand/ snow blowing around). Nope. It was blue skies and sunshine and I broke a sweat in my little jacket. I was sure it was in the upper 20's F. And I was happy! I felt free! I felt rejuvenated, awakened, alive! When I came back to our ger I told Justin all about it and checked the temperature on weather.com. 44 degrees! Forty-freakin'-four degrees! For a while I just stood there saying 'Forty-freakin'-four! Forty-freakin'-four!'. I didn't know what to do with myself. I was just outside thinking it was 20 something, I don't know why knowing it was now forty-freakin'-four degrees changed things so much. But it did. Hope. It gave me hope. The temperature can rise above freezing. I know this to be true.

This past Thursday I accompanied the Cooking Club's teacher again to make cinnamon rolls. I don't know why I get so nervous around her...Well, actually I think I do...One time when I made pizza with my English Club students she suggested I add more oil to my pizza crust-- which personally I didn't think I needed to and I don't think she has ever made a pizza crust in her life or eaten one for that matter...So I guess I'm scared of being criticized by her because I'm a self taught baker (well, she is as well, but she is a lot older than me so has a lot more experience). Anyway, I screwed up on the recipe. I totally left out the water needed to help the yeast activate. However, I did use the milk, butter and egg...so that was moisture enough but the yeast just didn't look right. It wasn't frothing. Anyway, I continued on with the recipe. It ended up being a hit! None of them had ever had cinnamon before. I tried to explain what it was but my Mongolian cooking vocabulary is horrible! So I didn't accomplish anything. They all tasted the cinnamon powder and said that it was 'hot'...like spicy hot. It made me laugh a little. Everything is spicy hot to them. But the Cooking Club teacher said I was a very good baker to the students and also other teachers (they passed around the cinnamon rolls to the faculty). It makes me happy that I can finally be recognized for something. So far they know I can't play volleyball, can't play basketball (which is HUGE here!), don't drink, don't eat meat (which is almost an insult here), my Mongolian isn't the best by far, and I don't like going to parties (which is also an insult to them, but I hate being pressured). I am a good teacher though, and I know that. But I'm not so sure how important that is to them. Baking, though...Baking may have saved my volunteer service.

Ready in 5 Hours- A Mexican Food Recipe

A peak inside Dinner with the Newberrys:

We had Mexican night on Thursday night. It was scrumptious! If you follow our "Ready in 5 hours" recipe your tummy will be a happy tummy, too! We're not boasting it will be ready in 45 mins, and I laugh (actually, I cry) when I remember those nights in the States making those "20 Min Meals" successfully. Nope, this was 5 hours...Wanna know our secret??? We have one burner. Dinner preparation began at 4pm and we sat down to eat at about 9:30. It was all worth it though. We had black beans (they were dried beans we had to soak and boil), rice (not minute rice...20 min rice), chicken fajitas (frozen chicken drumsticks we had to boil/thaw then cut the meat off), pico de gallo, and tortillas....all of this homemade.

The funny thing is that Justin and I labored over this meal not really thinking a thing about how lengthy the process was. But when we sat down at 9:30pm I thought about if we were in the states how the whole dinner making process would go: beans in a crock pot before you leave for work, 4 large burners for boiling rice, chicken, sautéing, and making tortillas...All of that could be going on at the same time! We would have had that same laborious dinner in about 45 mins. Which somewhat depressed me, but..

Eh, what else are we going to do with our evenings?

Ger, Sweet Ger

We're home! It was a great 5 days of not making fires and smelling of smoke. Also a great 4 nights of sleeping in t-shirts and no socks (because the rooms stay heated all night long!) It was great not having to layer up before going to bed.

Speaking of great...It was great to see all my friends. We didn't do much more than eat at amazing restaurants, go to American food stores and lounge around, taking showers-- not bagging coal, preparing lessons, adding dung to the fire, etc.

This was my frist bowl of cold cereal in 9 months! It was really amazingly awesome. I also ate the cup of noodles (pictured) with my breakfast. Gotta eat good while you're on vacay!

We didn't end up staying at Khongor Guesthouse because it is apparently being renovated. So we stayed at UB Guesthouse. It was nice, but I am partial to Khongor. Khongor's beds are magical! But, UB Guesthouses bathrooms are cleaner and nicer...

One of my friends went to America a couple of weeks ago and brought back a bottle of Dr. Pepper for me and Justin. Can you believe it?! Every where they sell Coke we look for Dr. Pepper. No luck. This was our frist sip of the Dr.'s orders in 9 months. It was delicious.

Another one of our friends, Erin, invited us to dinner with her Mongolian friend. It was a great meal and the Mongolian couple actually had a lot in common with me and Justin...same age, same graduation year, started dating the same year, have been married for the same amount of years. It was interesting to compare lifestyles that are so similar yet different to ours.

All in all it was a success! I only got thrown up on once on the bus to Ulaanbataar. Our bus seats 28, yet on the trips to and from UB there were over 40 people on the bus, so we were packed. On the way back we even had a live rabbit sitting on a man's lap waiting to be taken to his ger for supper. This is my last visit to the big city for a long while. Now I'm back at school, smelling like smoke and just not as squeaky clean. But it's okay because summer is on its way, right? :)

Lady Gaga in Mongolia

Our kids are in love with Lady Gaga. The parents....not so much. But Lady Gaga gets plenty of attention here. Is that a good thing or a bad thing?

This week we have focused on debating in my classes. The students absolutely love it! I was surprised. I kind of felt like this lesson was just a blow-away lesson. One that would be interesting to learn about, but then abandoned in next year's curriculum. Nuh huh. That's not what happened. The first topic of debate was whether or not a road should be built from our town to the capital city (270 km away). We drew sticks to see who was affirming and negating. Both sides took it very seriously (even though at the end of class we all agreed a road is so important to our town's development). I was so impressed with the points that they made and the X-examination made my eyes tear up. They were really learning and working hard.

After class all the students had left and I was locking up the classroom when I hear someone running back down the hall to my classroom. It was an 11th grade student. She was out of breath but told me how much she liked the debate and that she had an idea. She wanted to improve her English pronunciation and asked if I'd debate her tomorrow evening to practice debate, English, and pronunciation. The topic: That Lady Gaga's influence to society is detrimental. We both took a day to prepare and met back up in the classroom last night. I had a great time. Her points were good: inappropriate for children (which I then said that the fault for that should be on the parents for allowing their children to watch her/ listen to her and there are other things more harmful than her that parents should be concerned about), inappropriate for adults (which I then said that she is the epitome of freedom and independence), etc. etc. But at the end of the debate we shook hands and agreed that we both liked her music and her personality, but she can be a bit over the top.

So, yesterday I took some homemade brownies to school with me. It was quite entertaining. I wanted to share my baking with the teachers. I set the bowl of brownies on the table in the teachers' room, then sat down in the corner watching all of their reactions as they came in and examined the brownies. It was insane!! Each one of them did the exact same thing: poked it, picked up a crumb, smelt it, made a face, touched their tongue to it, asked 'what is this?', then put it in their mouth and smacked it around trying to taste the flavor (while still making a face), then exclaimed 'amar goi!' ('very good!'). Some teachers didn't believe I made them-- where else would they have come from??? Every time they asked what it was I would say 'brownies' in English (there isn't a Mongolian word). But they would shake their head and say 'shokolad belo' (chocolate cake), or 'shokolad bortsik' (chololate fried dough) and I would shake my head and say slowly: 'brownies'.

Mutton tacos...you oughta try it!

This is the last full week in February! Where has the time gone? Next month is supposedly a very busy one for Mongolian English Teachers and their PCVs. At the end of March is the nationwide English test for students and teachers called "English Olympics". The students and teachers study for this test all year long and have a chance to win money and credentials. It's a big deal. And PVCs play a BIG role in not only preparing them, but sometimes creating the test, grading the test, giving the test, proctoring the test... I have been teaching an English Olympic prep course on Friday nights for those interested in coming. For this week's English Olympic prep course, however, I will not be here. I'll be resting it up in UB!

But before I get into that, this is a little peak of what I've been doing for the last couple of weeks (post Tsagaan Sar):

Made Mutton tacos! It doesn't sound very good, and I'm not a mutton eater-- but these were darn good. Closest thing to Mexican in Mandalgovi. Our hashaa family's daughter came over and helped us mince the meet, made pico de gallo, and tortillas. We even found some cheese to shred and put on top. They seemed to really like it! Especially because it was mutton.

I went to a children's modeling show. It was really interesting and fun for the girls! I even got a picture with the models :)

I taught Justin how to sew. It was a big thing in our ger because he has the HOLIEST clothes...but he got them sewed up pretty good!

Justin and I both applied for training jobs this summer for the new PCVs that will get here in early June. This is a big thing to me. I'd love to help these new volunteers transition into Mongolian life and help them succeed once they are released to their own sites. I loved my training last summer and my trainers were awesome. I hope I can do the same for some of them! It's a big deal because if we get this 'job' (still volunteering) we'd be moving into a big city (in an APARTMENT) for half of the summer. Big stuff...having a toilet is a BIG deal! So, cross your fingers for us!

Now about UB this weekend. I am so excited because this is my first break from school (taking personal days off) and I am just so excited to escape the ger life for 5 days.

No more hard plywood bed made for 1 1/2 people with blankets as a mattress! And no more sleeping in a sleeping bag-- heavenly Khongor Guesthouse bed here I come!

No more handling camel poo to make fires and sweeping up its messes!

No more fighting coal and having coal stained hands!

No more fake sinks or water bucket!

No more handwashing or tumpin bathing!

For 5 days anyway :)

I knew it would happen somehow

Remember months ago when I said that I wanted to start up some type of cooking class while I'm here to teach nutrition/ well balanced meals--but also to teach new and different ways of cooking? Well, it's happening...ever...so...slowly. By the time this week has finished I will have made 8 pizzas. Tuesday I taught a cooking class (we made pizza, by popular demand) for 10th graders. Today I am teaching a cooking class (again, pizza by popular demand) to 9th & 11th graders, and tomorrow I am teaching a cooking class to some teachers (guess what we're cooking?! Yep. pizza, again by popular demand-- but also we're baking chocolate chip cookies afterward in this class). Then on Friday it's always pizza night in the Newberry Ger--so 8 pizzas in total. I do have to compliment myself on my hand-made/tossed pizza dough. I tried twirling it on my finger yesterday for the students, but was unsuccessful (at flattening and making the dough in a circular form), but quite successful at making the students laugh and making a fool of myself (which is okay, sometimes). I've already had several of my recipes (cinnamon rolls, choc. chip cookies, biscuits, pizza, meat/fruit pies) translated into Mongolian and distributed out to teachers because they heard that I bake. It makes me feel good that I CAN actually contribute something here (besides teaching styles/methodologies) because I was starting to feel like somewhat of a failure because I don't play volleyball or basketball (the MAJOR sports here, if you don't play you're definitely not in the 'in' crowd).

Well, it snowed again last night. I saw on the weather forecast that Saturday the high will be 31 degrees. It is oh-so-close to being above freezing, but it just can't seem to topple over that mark. Anyway, it hasn't really been able to get much above 20 degrees yet, so I'm really looking forward to this 31 degrees.

Spring!

...is still not here. Though I was very hopeful yesterday on my walk to school as I noticed how muddy my shoes were. I was dreading and wondering how I was going to clean them up before walking into the school building (because Mongolians keep their shoes immaculate!) when I realized "hey...there's mud...I see mud!!" I haven't seen mud or any type of liquid outside in months! Then, when I got home from school I had to go out into our ping to get more fuel for the fire. I came back in and noticed a spider walking across my ger floor. I had two feelings invade my body: to kill, then nostalgia. It has been so long since I've seen any life other than people & domesticated animals. But, my hopes of spring were soon smashed (along with the premature spider) when Justin came home and let me know it had just started snowing outside. Soon, though...Spring will come soon.

Tsagaan Sar Day 5

Last night after coming home from my Tsagaan Sar visits to mine and Justin's school teachers' homes I went to our hashaa family's house. It was about 9pm and hashaa mom was piling pound after pound of meat into a large box. She explained to me that her children are going back to UB tomorrow (this morning) and they are starving college students. The meat wasn't wrapped up in anything--just large slices of randam parts of a sheep piled up high. At the top she put a bag of about 100 frozen buuz leftover from Tsagaan Sar. I really watched in awe. I was watching her put her love into that box as well as frozen raw meat. I let her know that my mom would do the same, that our worlds are similar but different at the same time. It was nice to be there for that family moment.

Well, today is day 5 of Tsagaan Sar. Wait, what? Did I tell you that Tsagaan Sar was only 3 days? HAHAHAHA....silly readers and silly me for thinking that. Today I went to school and was welcomed to different teachers' rooms/offices as if they were their homes for Tsagaan Sar. I got to greet them all! I sat with them, ate and drank cup after cup of airag (fermented camel or horse milk) in each room. This holiday has many beautiful traditions. I love how welcoming and hospitable they all are--but the food and drinks alone have scarred me. I have taken and eaten out of respect for 6 days (Don't forget Tsagaan Sar Eve, so really this is day 6) of eating sour dried milk curds, camel, goat, horse and cow milk fat, boiled sour yogurt, fermented milk from all 4 animals in sour, clumpy, stringy, thick, chewy forms with floaties, hair, chunks and froth. I can see why Mongolia is one of the more difficult countries for PCVs to live. Not because of safety because it is VERY safe and friendly here--but for their food and drink. I don't think they know that fresh milk is okay to drink. It has to be set out to sour, then boiled, aired out for days and days before it is noteworthy to them. Wait....did I mention that I am an American who didn't like fresh store bought pasteurized milk in the states? The day of the milk's expiration date was one day too spoiled for me. I have only gagged twice in the passed 6 days and I don't think anyone saw me. But Mongolian food really takes some decades of getting used to. I'm still not convinced that all Mongolians like their own food--just that they feel obligated to like it because it is their culture to and tradition. I don't know, that's just my thought.

So a much needed vacation is in order! In less than 2 weeks Justin and I will be meeting some friends up in UB for a weekend of R&R&F (food). I can't wait to sink into that comfy heavenly bed in the Khongor Guesthouse and just lounge around with friends.

So, for the 5th/6th/or whatever day Happy Tsagaan Sar!

сайхан шинэлээрэй! (sahan shinleray!)

This is Tsagaan Sar as I (Ashlie) know it.

Tsagaan Sar Day 1:

Today (it is now 5pm) we finished our 1st day of Tsagaan Sar. It all began last night. We were invited to our hashaa family's home to help them decorated their 'boow'. It is made with layers of fried bread, then topped with white food, or dairy products such as airal (dried milk curds), oodum (top cream of the milk), and sugar.



Okay, nevermind-- it all REALLY started weeks ago when they made 1,000 buuz, pronounced like 'boadz'(meat filled dumplings)--we blogged about that last month. Then this weekend they boiled the 'fattest' sheep in our ger (our stove is bigger than theirs). There is a lot of preparation that goes on for this 1st day of Tsagaan Sar....



But, now onto today...It should have started at about 6am for us because it is a tradition to watch the sun rise-- to watch the new year begin. However, Justin and I couldn't get ourselves up until 9am. We ironed our dells (Mongolian traditional clothing) and cleaned our home. Then we went to our hashaa family's ger to celebrate the morning with them. The first thing you do when you go to someone else's home for this holiday is to greet the eldest person(s). I was very nervous for this part. There are certain greetings you say and places where you put your hands, etc. Here is a video of Justin greeting our hashaa father and mother, and pics of me doing the same:



Then a snuff bottle is passed around...


After the greetings we had many buuz, salads, and meat. Also many drinks were passed around the room: airag (fermented mare's milk), milk tea, wine, wiskey and vodka. Remember how I told you that each family puts one coin in a random buuz and the person who eats that buuz is lucky? Well, I had the pleasure of biting down into that coin this morning! I thought it was a bone and couldn't decide if I wanted to say something or not...then I realized what it was, that it wasn't a bone at all, but the very coin that would bring me wealth this year. Picture me, a volunteer worker, being wealthy this year. It's hard to believe, but I can't wait!

Then after much eating and talking we all got on the floor and played with shagai (sheep's ankle bones). We played a horse racing game with the ankle bones. It was really fun. I love this family!




Now, because Justin and I were guests in their home (when you visit other people's homes for Tsagaan Sar it is tradition to give them small gifts for visiting), we were given gifts. I received a beautiful jewelry set: ring, earrings and necklace, and Justin received a traditional Mongolian framed golden engraving. These were very nice gifts.

That was house one. Now we were off to another family member's home (Day one of Tsagaan Sar is reserved for family). There were so many people in this little ger that it was a little awkward at first, but after a while we felt the love. We were served drink after drink and food after food... We stayed for about an hour and a half before we were onto the 3rd and last ger.


Much of the same repeated itself. We were served many, many drinks and buuz. We sat and talked for a while...mostly smiled. I liked being able to see all these different people and take a peak of their rich culture. At one point I really felt like a fly on the wall, just watching in amazment at these nice people taking these weird foreigners into their homes and treating them like family...then I realized someone was talking to me and felt lost and confused.


This day has made me realize (again) what a beautiful culture this is. It is so different from the one I know, but this holiday is a great holiday and a great chance for me to realize what a different place I am in right now. Sometimes I get caught up in school and not exposing myself too much to Mongolian traditional life that I forget I'm half way around the world from what I know. This holiday (re) opened my eyes.

Now, two more days to go...

Experience, Success, Learning, Love & Family

These are the things I strive for always. To me nothing else in this world matters. Sometimes I find myself so far, far away from my values. I get caught up in work, life...but mostly I get caught up in myself. Journaling really helps me to realize how far astray I am going, or helps me realize what is good in my life, or bad in my life. But, my favorite thing to do is to read. I have a handful of books that I take with me everywhere and read several times a year-- purely for inspiration. Some of these books have accompanied me to England for my grandfather's funeral, to college-- off on my own, on crazy roadtrips, they've been with me during ups and downs in my homelife and even across the world to Asia. I've always been really interested in experience. To some it is called adventures, but I like to experience. Experience helps me learn. It helps me learn more about this world, its people and life. In one of my favorite books called "Standing For Something" by Gordon B. Hinckley he says "...it is desirable to be informed, to be educated, to increase one's understanding about the world and its peoples."

Today, I was doing my laundry and was thinking how happy I am. I am very content handwashing my clothes, adding coal to the fire after every load, sweeping up coal and dung dust-- making my humble abode clean and presentable. It makes me happy. I feel that my life has been successful. I have been able to accomplish everything I've dreamed of. I am still dreaming and will never stop-- so I will always have something to strive for, something to make me feel this success. The best part of this is my husband. Our life goals are very similar and without him I wouldn't have been able to experience any of this.

I found my dream home!

...and no it isn't a ger, nor is it in Mongolia (though that ger is a pretty shwanky ger!). If you know me then you know I am passionate about teaching. But if you know me WELL then you know how passionate I am about design. I have been an HGTV follower since I was in grade school. I have been dreaming of my dream home since I can't even remember. (Actually I remember very distinctly in 6th grade making a 6 page blueprint of my dream home... I still have it somewhere in a box in South Dakota.) I would LOVE to build my own home, but I just can't see myself doing that if there are perfectly good houses already built. I don't want to contribute to America's over-building. My dream now is to find a nice small run-down cottage with character somewhere and fix it up completely! I would customize every inch. I have saved pages and pages of fabrics I will want to use someday, paint colors, fixtures, furniture, etc.

Well, if you haven't found out by now-- PCVs have a lot of time on their hands. We do good work here. We're there for our teachers, our counter-parts, our students, we put in a lot of work and detail to lesson plans and activities, we mingle with co-workers after school hours to build relationships, we delegate assignments, and do many different assigments ourselves-- yet we still have time to kill. We don't have a tv, but we have plenty of books and the internet. So in our free time we are usually doing one or the other. And in my free time on the internet, I house hunt and research design. Yesterday I came across a real gem. I don't think I'll be able to find a house better than this one in a small town in north Texas. It's a got all the character I could dream of, including being a state historical marker. I doubt it will be on the market in another year and half for me to steal--but it gives me something to dream about. When I run long distances I keep my mind busy by designing homes. I find myself doing that here at night to help me fall asleep. We all have our obsessions. Mine is owning my perfect home.

Today is my sister's birthday! I hope you have a great day, Dora!

Mandalgov by Mornin'

I find myself singing a lot here in Mongolia, especially when doing chores. Washing the dishes, wiping down the table, hanging laundry, all tasks which seem to call for a song (I've found this doesn't translate to outside chores because the cold chokes off your voice within the first few words).

My playlist at the moment generally consists of songs about home (like "Songs About Texas" by Pat Green), songs of inspiration ("Don't Stop Believin'" Journey), or songs that have made the playlist through sheer winter-time, cabin fever, The Shining style insanity ("I Don't Wanna Wait" Paula Cole).

The other night I was singing a classic song, "Amarillo by Mornin'" by George Strait when I was inspired to imitate the great John Russell and adapt a classic about the homeland into a Mongolian hit. I call it, "Mandalgov by Morning."

Mandalgov by mornin', up through Omnogov
Everything that I've got, I burned in my stove
Well the sun'll be high in that Gobi sky, and I'll be hiding in my ger
Mandalgov by mornin', Mandalgov I'll be there

They took my wallet in UB, broke my shades in Uliastay
Lost my bag and a cell phone, somewhere along the way
The mikr's supposed to leave at 8, but I know they'll be late
And I'm hoping that driver ain't blind
Mandalgov by mornin', Mandalgov is on my mind

Mandalgov by mornin', up through Omnogov
Everything that I've got, I burned in my stove
Well, I'm monggui, but I've got all I need
I ain't rich, but lord I'm free
Mandalgov by mornin', Mandalgov's where I'll be
Mandalgov by mornin', Mandalgov's where I'll be

Mongolian Billboard Top 40 anyone? I think so.

When in Mongolia...

I have now been in Mongolia for 231 days. I'm not sure if assimilation has a feeling, but I think there are certainly indicators. For instance, I have had very strong indications such as dreaming in Mongolian, half of which I still don't understand. I've also had more subtle indications like hearing Mongolian associated terms in song lyrics ("I'm going to the Gobi" or "...everyone was wearing a del.")

But I think beyond dreams and audial hallucinations, I have more concrete and real indications. For instance I have come to except the fact that my Monday afternoon teachers lesson/ meeting will always be pre-empted by something else. I suppose making my teachers explain to me the excuse every week in English is a productive, if not first-choice, alternative. Or 50% of the time one of our town's three ATMs will be broken, usually the one I go to first.

What's even more amazing is the stride that things are taken with by Mongolians. They have a pace that is still at times a mystery to me. They all seem to have a clear idea of when it is ok to be late, and when it is not. I generally show up to things at the appointed times, only to have to wait half an hour before I have any company. At the same time, I have shown up 15 minutes late to a meeting and been the very last person. So much for Western punctuality.

But it's almost as if Mongolians have some sort of internal clock that distinguishes tasks that require urgency, and those that don't. Maybe by this time next January, I will have mastered Mongolian Standard Time myself, until then I'll just have to continue hurrying up to wait.

Military Concert

On Thursday night Justin and I were given tickets to watch a traveling Military Concert. This was the first time that they have come to our town of Mandalgovi. It was a big event. There was a lot of singing, dancing, playing instruments and even a magic show.

We were late to the event so we did not have seats. We stood in the back and watched the performances. They did a great job. One thing I have to say about Mongolian concerts is that they are all very similar. The same traditional songs are sung, same dance routines are danced and same intrumentals are played at every concert. Everything is beautiful, but I find it interesting that there isn't a lot of individualism when it comes to the arts.

When we walked in (late) I noticed a lot of heads were turned and more interested in why two white people were in their local theater than in the performances. It was oversold. There were kids sitting on the walls separating the seats and aisle. I liked watching the audience and feeling how far away I am from what I am used to in the states. It was just a really neat experience. Unfortunately we left the concert earily because my feet were KILLING me! We walked about a mile to the theater and I had heels on (I had been wearing them all day), then not being able to sit in the theater didn't help.

Here are some highlights from the concert: A man playing the Murin Khuur and a woman singing a Mongolian traditional song.

Making Buuz

Last week Justin and I were invited to our neighbor's house to help them make buuz (pronounced: boadz). They had several other people over helping them make their buuz for Tsagaan Sar. Each family makes about 1,000-2,000 of these meat filled pot stickers for this holiday. One tradition is to put a coin in one of the buuz and whoever eats that buuz is supposed to have good luck for the new year. During Tsagaan Sar you go to one house/ger to the next and visit family, friends and co-workers. This holiday lasts for 3 days. Day one is reserved for family members, day 2 is for visiting co-workers and day three is open for anyone to visit (friends). I hear we'll be averaging about 8 houses a day and that we'll stay at each home for about 45 mins-1 hr. The tradition is the same in each home: say your traditional Tsagaan Sar greeting, eat buuz, drink milk tea, drink fermented horse or camel milk (airag), and drink vodka, then you're on to the next ger to do the exact same thing all day long. I am pretty nervous. This holiday probably has the most traditions out of all the Mongolian holidays and I am nervous I will forget to do something or say something that I am supposed to say.

Here are a couple videos of me and Justin at our neighbor's house making Buuz:





Well today was a beautiful day, despite it being in the -20's. Mongolia is a very beautiful country. I love the stillness of winter. The cool, crisp air is really refreshing at times...mostly when the wind isn't blowing. It is just beautiful. I cannot wait for the summer, though! I love the green, green hills and open space with such wide blue cloudless skies. It's amazing. I can't even begin to discribe the stars, you just wouldn't understand unless you've seen it for yourself. I am from Texas and the stars at night are big and bright deep in the heart of Texas...but Texas has NOTHING on Mongolian stars.

Frozen things

1. my nose
2. my fingers
3. my toes

Just kidding (kinda). Here are some pictures of some real frozen things:



So here's a funny story. Last night Justin and I were picking up a few items at this one store. There were many people there and the woman behind the counter was really busy, so Justin and I looked around at what they had while we waited. And. I. Found. Beans!!!! Dried red beans and black beans! I was starting to think that Mandalgovi was turning into a mini UB because we can now find chicken and tuna regularly here. It was finally our turn to be served and we asked for 1 kilo of the red beans and the lady said 'shish bish'--that they weren't beans. But I was pretty sure they were beans, I mean I was looking right at them. So I said, 'fine, half a kilo then'. Happy to have my beans, I watch the lady pour half a kilo into a bag on the scale, and as the beans fell from one bag to the other I then saw that they were 'shish bish'. They were not beans but candied peanuts. Trickster peanuts.


By the way, I did ask my teachers what they did when they wanted to relax. I set the tone for them and was like 'on days when you've just worked so much, you're tired and just want to unwind, what do Mongolian women do?' It was silent for a couple of seconds then one brave Mongolian said 'Cry'.

Hands say it all

Living in a ger is dirty work. Not only do you constantly smell like smoke (which I hate), your home is never clean (because of ash, soot, coal dust, etc), and your hands are ALWAY dirty. Running water is a novelty. I have to say that I don't wash my hands as much as I did in the states because we don't have running water-- but I do wash them, it's just that I wash them just to get them dirty again. I need to try to clean my dirt-stained hands. Yesterday a teacher took my hands and examined them closely-- under the nail and everything. Then she said "her nails are short because if they were long they would be dirty". I wiped my brow and let out a sigh having known that I passed a clean check. But today I kept my hands hidden because they are so dirty. And it's not that I don't wash my hands, it's just that the dirt gets under the skin and when your hands look dry and ashy already, dirt stains just stand out more. You can wash your hands all you want, but it won't wipe this dirt away...salts... that's what I need a homemade handscrub.

I wonder what the Mongolian equivelant of a hot bubble bath with aroma therapy salts, lighted scented candles and lavender and chamomile tea at hand is. I think I'll ask my teachers tomorrow what that is here. Anyway, that's what I'll have tonight.

How do they do it?

I have found myself to be a little busier this semester than last semester. It is a good thing. The only bad side to it is that I now have to schedule in time for me to bake because some nights it's hard to muster up the energy to bake something once I've come home to a 20 degree ger, cleaned out the stove, got a nice fire going, cleaning the mess off the floor (from dung dust, coal dust, ash, soot, etc.). Yes, I know I need to bake to eat food and food equals energy--but when you're hungry you will eat anything...Man I miss my crock-potting days. Heck, I miss my microwaving days.

Justin and I used to have a microwave here in our ger. But during one visit from his school Director a couple months ago she asked why we had two ovens. We told her that one was a microwave and she said 'yes, why do you have two ovens?'...so days later a school worker showed up at our ger and took our microwave away because we didn't need 'two ovens'. Maybe she thought she was clearing out unnecessary items from our small ger to give us more space, or maybe she thought we were spoiled? I don't know. But I do know this: We do not have a microwave.

Now onto our stove. This stove never really was ours. It's our neighbors' that we've been 'borrowing'. It's been in our ger for about 90% of the time we've been here. However, there are days when they come and ask to use it...then the next day we ask for it back. Well, this week we have been without our stove. It has proven to be rather difficult. I don't know how other PCVs do it! How can you eat without a stove or a microwave?! Justin and I were able to survive like this the first two weeks we lived in Mandalgovi, but I can't even remember how we survived that long. (I do remember we made a pretty awesome pizza in our skillet, believe it or not-- I was really impressed with that). Anyway, I know it is possible, but it is not ideal. How can we survive without my yummy rolls, cinnamon rolls, biscuits, cookies, baked chicken? Well, more importantly-- WHAT WILL I DO WITH ALL MY TIME? Baking was really my escape.

Tsagaan Sar is coming up. It IS the biggest holiday in Mongolia by far. This is their celebration for the lunar New Year and I know our neighbors will be wanting their oven for preparation (they really plan ahead. Tsagaan Sar is Feb 3rd this year and people are starting to make Buuz on January 20. They make thousands of buuz. I'm not even kidding you...each family makes about 2,000 buuz).
Here are some buuz:


So to buy an oven, or not to buy an oven? 250,000 tgs is a lot of money. This is the debate right now in the Newberry Ger.

A new year

You find yourself coming up with the most interesting thoughts and analogies when you have so much time to think. For instance, I have connected the troop surge in Iraq to a strategy for using trash in your fire. You have to overwhelm the dung and wood with a shock and awe of flammable rubbish in order to make it count. Also, I have calculated the seconds remaining in my service (2,788,992,000 as of the time of writing this blog).

I have also figured out that I spent more of 2010 in Mongolia than out of it. That's amazing to me. I answer all of the time how long ago I came to Mongolia and when I came, but I guess I never thought of it in terms of having spent the majority of last year here. I still feel like my service is just beginning. Especially when I do things like calculate the remaining seconds.

With that thought in mind, I also wonder whether I am doing enough here. Whether I am making a difference or just pissing away tax payer money. It also makes me think of my mistakes I've made here and whether I have learned from the mistakes I have already made (today for instance I bludgeoned myself in the head with the sharp end of an axe while bagging coal, what did we learn?). But I've also made far more grave mistakes than gashing my head with the corner of an axe blade, and I wonder if I have learned my lesson.

In Dallas, I was a mentor for 7 10th grade boys who were considered possibly at risk. Maybe I wasn't much of a mentor considering 2 of them got expelled before the end of the year, but I told both of them the exact same thing the day after their expulsion. The only bad mistakes are mistakes that we don't learn from. And so looking back on a year of mistakes, I wonder what have I learned? And what have I learned since June 3, 2010? Maybe not as much as I should, but I'm trying. To quote the great Samuel L. Jackson, "I'm trying real hard, Ringo."

And so looking forward to 2011, I'm hoping, strangely, (and with minimal damage) for more mistakes, but different mistakes. If we grow because of our mistakes, do we grow without them?