Military Concert

On Thursday night Justin and I were given tickets to watch a traveling Military Concert. This was the first time that they have come to our town of Mandalgovi. It was a big event. There was a lot of singing, dancing, playing instruments and even a magic show.

We were late to the event so we did not have seats. We stood in the back and watched the performances. They did a great job. One thing I have to say about Mongolian concerts is that they are all very similar. The same traditional songs are sung, same dance routines are danced and same intrumentals are played at every concert. Everything is beautiful, but I find it interesting that there isn't a lot of individualism when it comes to the arts.

When we walked in (late) I noticed a lot of heads were turned and more interested in why two white people were in their local theater than in the performances. It was oversold. There were kids sitting on the walls separating the seats and aisle. I liked watching the audience and feeling how far away I am from what I am used to in the states. It was just a really neat experience. Unfortunately we left the concert earily because my feet were KILLING me! We walked about a mile to the theater and I had heels on (I had been wearing them all day), then not being able to sit in the theater didn't help.

Here are some highlights from the concert: A man playing the Murin Khuur and a woman singing a Mongolian traditional song.

Making Buuz

Last week Justin and I were invited to our neighbor's house to help them make buuz (pronounced: boadz). They had several other people over helping them make their buuz for Tsagaan Sar. Each family makes about 1,000-2,000 of these meat filled pot stickers for this holiday. One tradition is to put a coin in one of the buuz and whoever eats that buuz is supposed to have good luck for the new year. During Tsagaan Sar you go to one house/ger to the next and visit family, friends and co-workers. This holiday lasts for 3 days. Day one is reserved for family members, day 2 is for visiting co-workers and day three is open for anyone to visit (friends). I hear we'll be averaging about 8 houses a day and that we'll stay at each home for about 45 mins-1 hr. The tradition is the same in each home: say your traditional Tsagaan Sar greeting, eat buuz, drink milk tea, drink fermented horse or camel milk (airag), and drink vodka, then you're on to the next ger to do the exact same thing all day long. I am pretty nervous. This holiday probably has the most traditions out of all the Mongolian holidays and I am nervous I will forget to do something or say something that I am supposed to say.

Here are a couple videos of me and Justin at our neighbor's house making Buuz:





Well today was a beautiful day, despite it being in the -20's. Mongolia is a very beautiful country. I love the stillness of winter. The cool, crisp air is really refreshing at times...mostly when the wind isn't blowing. It is just beautiful. I cannot wait for the summer, though! I love the green, green hills and open space with such wide blue cloudless skies. It's amazing. I can't even begin to discribe the stars, you just wouldn't understand unless you've seen it for yourself. I am from Texas and the stars at night are big and bright deep in the heart of Texas...but Texas has NOTHING on Mongolian stars.

Frozen things

1. my nose
2. my fingers
3. my toes

Just kidding (kinda). Here are some pictures of some real frozen things:



So here's a funny story. Last night Justin and I were picking up a few items at this one store. There were many people there and the woman behind the counter was really busy, so Justin and I looked around at what they had while we waited. And. I. Found. Beans!!!! Dried red beans and black beans! I was starting to think that Mandalgovi was turning into a mini UB because we can now find chicken and tuna regularly here. It was finally our turn to be served and we asked for 1 kilo of the red beans and the lady said 'shish bish'--that they weren't beans. But I was pretty sure they were beans, I mean I was looking right at them. So I said, 'fine, half a kilo then'. Happy to have my beans, I watch the lady pour half a kilo into a bag on the scale, and as the beans fell from one bag to the other I then saw that they were 'shish bish'. They were not beans but candied peanuts. Trickster peanuts.


By the way, I did ask my teachers what they did when they wanted to relax. I set the tone for them and was like 'on days when you've just worked so much, you're tired and just want to unwind, what do Mongolian women do?' It was silent for a couple of seconds then one brave Mongolian said 'Cry'.

Hands say it all

Living in a ger is dirty work. Not only do you constantly smell like smoke (which I hate), your home is never clean (because of ash, soot, coal dust, etc), and your hands are ALWAY dirty. Running water is a novelty. I have to say that I don't wash my hands as much as I did in the states because we don't have running water-- but I do wash them, it's just that I wash them just to get them dirty again. I need to try to clean my dirt-stained hands. Yesterday a teacher took my hands and examined them closely-- under the nail and everything. Then she said "her nails are short because if they were long they would be dirty". I wiped my brow and let out a sigh having known that I passed a clean check. But today I kept my hands hidden because they are so dirty. And it's not that I don't wash my hands, it's just that the dirt gets under the skin and when your hands look dry and ashy already, dirt stains just stand out more. You can wash your hands all you want, but it won't wipe this dirt away...salts... that's what I need a homemade handscrub.

I wonder what the Mongolian equivelant of a hot bubble bath with aroma therapy salts, lighted scented candles and lavender and chamomile tea at hand is. I think I'll ask my teachers tomorrow what that is here. Anyway, that's what I'll have tonight.

How do they do it?

I have found myself to be a little busier this semester than last semester. It is a good thing. The only bad side to it is that I now have to schedule in time for me to bake because some nights it's hard to muster up the energy to bake something once I've come home to a 20 degree ger, cleaned out the stove, got a nice fire going, cleaning the mess off the floor (from dung dust, coal dust, ash, soot, etc.). Yes, I know I need to bake to eat food and food equals energy--but when you're hungry you will eat anything...Man I miss my crock-potting days. Heck, I miss my microwaving days.

Justin and I used to have a microwave here in our ger. But during one visit from his school Director a couple months ago she asked why we had two ovens. We told her that one was a microwave and she said 'yes, why do you have two ovens?'...so days later a school worker showed up at our ger and took our microwave away because we didn't need 'two ovens'. Maybe she thought she was clearing out unnecessary items from our small ger to give us more space, or maybe she thought we were spoiled? I don't know. But I do know this: We do not have a microwave.

Now onto our stove. This stove never really was ours. It's our neighbors' that we've been 'borrowing'. It's been in our ger for about 90% of the time we've been here. However, there are days when they come and ask to use it...then the next day we ask for it back. Well, this week we have been without our stove. It has proven to be rather difficult. I don't know how other PCVs do it! How can you eat without a stove or a microwave?! Justin and I were able to survive like this the first two weeks we lived in Mandalgovi, but I can't even remember how we survived that long. (I do remember we made a pretty awesome pizza in our skillet, believe it or not-- I was really impressed with that). Anyway, I know it is possible, but it is not ideal. How can we survive without my yummy rolls, cinnamon rolls, biscuits, cookies, baked chicken? Well, more importantly-- WHAT WILL I DO WITH ALL MY TIME? Baking was really my escape.

Tsagaan Sar is coming up. It IS the biggest holiday in Mongolia by far. This is their celebration for the lunar New Year and I know our neighbors will be wanting their oven for preparation (they really plan ahead. Tsagaan Sar is Feb 3rd this year and people are starting to make Buuz on January 20. They make thousands of buuz. I'm not even kidding you...each family makes about 2,000 buuz).
Here are some buuz:


So to buy an oven, or not to buy an oven? 250,000 tgs is a lot of money. This is the debate right now in the Newberry Ger.

A new year

You find yourself coming up with the most interesting thoughts and analogies when you have so much time to think. For instance, I have connected the troop surge in Iraq to a strategy for using trash in your fire. You have to overwhelm the dung and wood with a shock and awe of flammable rubbish in order to make it count. Also, I have calculated the seconds remaining in my service (2,788,992,000 as of the time of writing this blog).

I have also figured out that I spent more of 2010 in Mongolia than out of it. That's amazing to me. I answer all of the time how long ago I came to Mongolia and when I came, but I guess I never thought of it in terms of having spent the majority of last year here. I still feel like my service is just beginning. Especially when I do things like calculate the remaining seconds.

With that thought in mind, I also wonder whether I am doing enough here. Whether I am making a difference or just pissing away tax payer money. It also makes me think of my mistakes I've made here and whether I have learned from the mistakes I have already made (today for instance I bludgeoned myself in the head with the sharp end of an axe while bagging coal, what did we learn?). But I've also made far more grave mistakes than gashing my head with the corner of an axe blade, and I wonder if I have learned my lesson.

In Dallas, I was a mentor for 7 10th grade boys who were considered possibly at risk. Maybe I wasn't much of a mentor considering 2 of them got expelled before the end of the year, but I told both of them the exact same thing the day after their expulsion. The only bad mistakes are mistakes that we don't learn from. And so looking back on a year of mistakes, I wonder what have I learned? And what have I learned since June 3, 2010? Maybe not as much as I should, but I'm trying. To quote the great Samuel L. Jackson, "I'm trying real hard, Ringo."

And so looking forward to 2011, I'm hoping, strangely, (and with minimal damage) for more mistakes, but different mistakes. If we grow because of our mistakes, do we grow without them?

Shin Jil

I was dreading this party for so long. I was constantly thinking of excuses I could give to get out of going. But, I went....and I had a WONDERFUL time! It was amazing! It wasn't close to what I thought it would be. Yes, there was vodka going around the entire time and a whole lot of dancing--but no pressure involved. I love dancing the Mongolian waltz! I danced with several people, who were kind enough to teach me as we went. Justin and I learned how to Mongolian Waltz this summer, but I have since forgotten. It was so easy to just let your partner twirl you around in all of those circles and glide along the floor. I had so much fun. I don't think I've laughed so much without Americans present. It was a good thing.

We had the party in the school gym. My teachers let me know that normally you would have a Shin Jil party at a restaurant (fancier), but we have so many teachers that it was less expensive to host it ourselves. We had a tasty spread of food: apples, oranges, tomatoes, candy, dried fruit, juices, sausage, etc. Then our main course came out: CHICKEN! (another thing I was dreading was having to eat mutton-- as is normal at Mongolian gatherings). Then out came the dessert of ice cream and red berries. It was delicious. The tag on the outside says 'Merry Christmas 2011' but inside it says Happy New Year in Mongolian (one in the same).


We toasted the new year, and fireworks were set off inside, and then the dance began!
I took a picture of a teacher (who was the designated drink pourer)giving drinks to everyone. Notice how he touches his elbow while he gives the drink--a Mongolian tradition to show respect when you are giving (and receiving) a gift.





This is a picture of me and my hashaa mom (my neighbor). She is also my training manager at school. Her name is Oyuna.


I really had a great time and am so happy that I went. I feel like I got to know a lot of the teachers better and it was important for them to see that I am having a great time with them (I was!). I wish I could be Mongolian waltzing right now--spinning around on my ger floor. :) Happy New Year!

Merry Christmas!

We had a humble gathering at our ger on Christmas day. Megan (our sitemate) came over. She brought over some amazing pistachio biscotti that she had made. I will be bugging her for that recipe. She used pistachios from a package her mom sent to her, but I'm sure I can subsitute it with something else.

We made a great dinner of roasted chicken, mashed potatoes, green beans and rolls. Justin and I bought several cans of green beans while we were in UB. I think sadly we only have one can left...


I made christmas stockings for all of us! I made them out of posterboard and duct tape. We filled them with awesome candy and I put in a can of pepsi for each of us.



We all bought gifts for each other. It was wonderful being able to give gifts and receive gifts on Christmas Day.



All in all, it was a success! We had a great time hanging out together, talking, eating, laughing....Certainly doesn't compare to being home--but nonetheless, we had a great time!

Here Comes Santa Claus!

For the past couple of weeks my English Club students have been learning about Christmas. They do not celebrate Christmas here. The closest holiday they have to Christmas is Shin Jil (New Year's). As described in my last post, they decorate Shin Jil with tinsel, Christmas trees, pictures of Santa (some people even dress up as Santa) and so on, so it looks very much like Christmas--but they are celebrating the new year. Therefore, most Mongolians will tell you that they know Christmas--but really they are refering to New Year's (they think it is one and the same). I thought I had it easy when I was teaching them about American Christmas traditions because they all seemed to know about it already. Then when I had them make Christmas cards they all wrote 'New Year' or 'Happy New Year' or 'Good luck New Year' etc. I decided that my next lesson will be more in depth to explain why we celebrate Christmas and the difference between that and New Year's.

That was an interesting lesson. I have been teaching my students the Christmas Hymn "Silent Night" (they LOVE to sing and want to learn many english songs). While the song was going on in the background I asked if they knew who Jesus Christ was. Some didn't and some only recognized his name when I said it in Mongolian. So then I put the two words together "Christ" and "Christ-mas" I heard a lot of oooooooooh's. A light bulb had turned on. I told them that Christmas is religous and it is celebrating Christ's birth-- not the new year. Obviously there is more history behind Christmas but I couldn't get into a deep conversation, nor a history lesson with them.

Now that they know the difference it is time to make decorations for the Christmas Party! We made a Christmas chain, Angels and snowflakes. For the Christmas chain they wrote on each strip what they wanted for Christmas. I was impressed that most of the things they wanted were not materialistic. They wanted peace, health, happiness, a cleaner environment, good health to friends, etc. So I told them (after they had written quite a few) that they could also say which THINGS they wanted. So as an example I went first and I wrote 'I want perfume for Christmas'. They all laughed like it was silly, but they got the hang of it. PS, I really do want perfume for Christmas. I miss the clean fresh scents!

The party went very well. We had it last night. My mom will be proud to know that I brought her Christmas Bingo set with me here. All students were to bring a small gift (worth less that 1000 Tugriks) and put it on a table where they were then numbered. Instead of raffling the gifts off, we played Christmas bingo a million times until every student won a gift. It was a good way to teach them holiday nouns and explain other traditions (such as stockings). We then sang Silent Night. I used the Peter Breinholt version (beautiful!). The students were still struggling, but we sang it a few times to get it down. After the singining we ate and danced.


Meanwhile, the teachers had their own table. We drew names a couple of weeks ago and bought a gift worth up to 10,000 tugiks for the name we drew. Here is a picture of me giving my gift. When giving gifts you must give with both hands and receive it with both hands. (Or you can give it with your right hand only, while the left hand is touching your elbow and the receiver must also receive it in this way).

I received a nice, red, leather notebook, some pens and some hand lotion (that I did desparately need!). One Christmas party down and one more to go.

What is American Traditional Clothing?

Tonight one of my students came over to my ger to talk. She wanted to practice her speaking skills because soon she will have a speaking exam. I asked her basic questions, 'What's your name, How old are you, What is your favorite subject', etc. Then we just got to talking about other things. She asked me if I owned Mongolian traditional clothing (a dell) and I said yes. Then she asked what American traditional clothing looked like. I was stumped. Then Justin (who was making dinner in the background) yelled 'blue jeans!'. It is true. We've been wearing those comfy second layer of skin for a long time. Then she asked about American traditional food. Hot dogs? Hamburgers? Meetgui (I don't know).

The countdown for Christmas is here. Mandalgovi will have a humble get together at the Newberry Ger. 2 out of 5 of us are missing (1 of our sitemates is in UB working--bummer-- and the other is in the States on Medical leave--also bummer). I am excited to roast some chicken, mash some potatoes and bake a pie!



Now, there are actually 2 countdowns going on. One is to the best Holiday ever (Christmas-- only 5 more days) and the other is for a day I am dreading. Shin Jil (6 more days). I know I probably offended a great deal of people but I am just not looking forward to this party. Shin Jil (meaning New Year) is just what you think it is, except in Mongolia they decorate New Year's with Christmas decorations-- even Santa has an appearance (but it's nothing at all like Christmas, so it's kinda just there to mock you). Each organization puts on a huge Shin Jil party and I've heard they can last up until 6am the next morning. It is drinking vodka, dancing, drinking more vodka and dancing some more. Now, to some this sounds like a dream come true, but there are two things you need to know about me: I don't drink AND I don't dance. I'm lame. I know. So why am I even going to this party? 1)I do want to go. I want to experience new things and live a little, I can't stay shut up in my ger all the time. 2) There are 3 major holidays in Mongolia and this is one of them. If I didn't participate it would be disrespectful-- and like #1 said, I do want to go. 3) This goes along with #1, but I can't say I've experienced Mongolia and lived like the locals if I don't celebrate Shin Jil with them. And 4) I am in total obligation.

This Shin Jil party that I am going to is put on by my school. Spouses/family aren't invited to organization parties like they are in the states. Therefore, Justin cannot go with me. If you know me, you know I'm a very shy person without my hubby. But I'll survive. This party is on December 26th. Expect an update by December 27th.

For now, I am keeping it out of my mind and focusing on Christmas! I will be watching A Muppet's Christmas Carol and wishing I was singing the songs along with my family at home (one of our crazy traditions).

You know it's a good day when...

...Your first fire of the morning starts on the first try. Especially when you have to get up early and leave in a hurry...oh yeah, AND it's literally below freezing in your ger.

...You walk into a class that you are dreading (because you are substituting-- solo teaching-- and they are pubescent 9th graders)and the students start to give high fives to each other and race to see who will sit in the front row. They are happy the 'amerik bagsh' (american teacher) will be teaching them today.

...Your students (who are primary teachers and did not know any English prior to my teaching them) find you in the hallway to tell you that English class will have to be canceled because of a mandatory primary teacher's meeting-- all in English. (It was very confusing, but they got the point across).

...You find a Hershey's Kiss in your purse!!!! (You can't buy Hershey's kisses here...One of the teachers brought them back from her trip to S. Korea and I forgot I had it).

...You realize it's Friday.

...Because it's Friday, you realize that it's Pizza night!!!

...You've been stuck inside the school all day and get a text message from a PCV friend asking about the current heat-wave. So when you step outside you can immediately feel that the temperature is above freezing! There is hope that I can survive this winter!

...Stepping outside you realize it's warm enough that you do not need to wear a hat! I almost felt like I was showing too much skin not having a hat and hood on.

And finally:

You know it is a good day when 11pm comes and goes without a neighbor coming in for an awkward conversation that late in the night (for the past 2 nights at 11pm on the dot our neighbor has come over to sit in silence and we exchange a couple sentences before they leave abruptly...probably mid sentence and we are left in utter confusion).

Today was a good day (yamar sahan odor way!). I felt needed and I felt useful. And now I feel tired. Only 8 more sleeps 'til Christmas! sahan amraray.

Unrecognizable

Last night, when I got home from school, I started taking off my boots, then my fluffy socks, then my knee socks and when I got to my main socks I saw that not only did I have mismatched socks on, but one was inside out. Wait-- it gets better (or worse). Not only did I wear mismatched, inside out socks all day...but for 3. There. I said it. 3 days. I've worn the same socks, inside out and mismatched for 3 days. (It's been so cold that you wouldn't want to take your socks off!) Coming to this realization made me run for my journal and open it up. I read my last several entries, then read the very beginning of my journal which was while we were still in America. I was looking for something. I was wondering when I started to become who I am today. No way, in America, would I wear mismatched socks. No way, in America, would I have not noticed that one was inside out while the other was worn correctly. And NO WAY, in America, would I have gone 3 days without changing my socks. Do you want to know the best part? Day 4. Yep. Today, I wore my mismatched, inside out dirty socks for a 4th and final day. OMG, I was such a neat-freak in America that if, by chance, I had put one sock on inside out I would have IMMEDIATELY changed it because of how much it would have bugged me just to know that one sock is inside out and one is not.

So, there I am on my bed reading my journal, then glancing around my ger to see what else was out of my character. I have changed. Now, to add to this, I received an amazing package today from my uncle in England. Inside the package was a picture of me and my husband at my cousin's wedding (along with many other great things!). My hair was extremely short, but well kept...and I had highlights! My make up was done beautifully. I hardly recognized myself. I don't know who she is anymore. She isn't me. Not at this time in my life anyway. Being here has definitely made me a stronger person. Mongolians live a hard life. Yet, they are so happy. Today I went to a store and the shopkeeper was singing a well know Mongolian song. Then in walks another man who immediately starts joining the shopkeeper in song. It was amazing to see. You don't do that in America.

Maybe when I go back to the states I will try being my old me again. But I know I will forget to flush the toilet at times, or I will laugh at the ease of twisting on a faucet and magically getting hot, drinkable water out of the tap-- so I won't be my old me completely, a part of Mongolia will be with me and I want to take it home with me.

But PLEASE, when I come home, if you see me wearing the same socks day in and day out TELL me to change my socks! Geez. I won't have that in the states!

Missing Home

Life isn't always sunny and warm. In fact, for the past several days it has been the exact opposite. Cold and dark. We are averaging only about 8 hours of full daylight (not to mention I live in a ger without any windows, so when the sun's not shining my ger is a very, very dark place) and the temperatures dip into the negatives daily now (not counting the windchill...and there is always wind). Anyway, I could go on with the woes of my life. But there is no point in doing that. The holiday season has arrived and there is much to be thankful for! One thing I am ecstatic about is the Peace Corps Volunteer that lived in our ger before us left us a Christmas tree!! It is stored in a closet at my school, so you better believe that on Monday afternoon I will be carrying a box that has "christmas" handwritten on the side! Justin and I made a great purchase at the Black Market in Ulaanbaatar (where we purchased our hats and his coat)...we bought a silver tinsel garland. It is currently draped over our 'closet'. Christmas music has constantly been playing in the background of our home. Christmas movies are beginning to be watched. And best of all (my favorite anyway) the baking has begun-- well, it never ended, but the 'Christmas' baking has begun. Despite all this I miss home. I am so very lucky to have Justin here with me. Peace Corps Volunteers are very strong people, you have to be. But I have it easy because I was able to take my best friend with me through this crazy journey.

What a Wonderful Life

Let's start way back. On November 25th, I was told to wear my Mongolian Dell (Mongolian traditional clothing)to school. This day was 'National Wear Your Dell Day', so I was told. I went to school and saw that everyone had participated! It was wonderful to see all the young students, older students, and even teachers flaunting their winter dells. I've only had the opportunity to wear my dell 3 times now. But I hear as the new years comes I will have many, many more chances.



Justin and I got back yesterday from a 10 day trip to Ulaanbaatar. It was amazing! We left Friday (Novemeber 26). Some friends and us splurged and booked a fancy hotel for 3 nights. I was so excited to see all of them! Justin and I got to the hotel first, so it was awesome hugging them all one by one when they traveled in. One of my friends trains didn't get to UB until 6am Saturday morning. I felt like a mother staying up until all of her little ones are safe under one roof. I was so happy to be there with all of them. We stayed on the 11th floor of the Narantuul Hotel. Here are some pics from the 11th floor view.



While we were in UB we did a lot of shopping. UB has almost (*almost*) anything you want. We were sure to buy some real Heinz 57 ketchup in a glass bottle (Justin's favorite), some brown sugar, some tinsel to decorate our ger with, some green beans-- GREEN BEANS!!, and we found Justin an awesome winter hat and coat. I loved Justin's hat so much that I went and bought one later. Both fur hats and Justin's coat cost a total of 55,000 Tugriks. That's only about $50. But it all actuality is a lot for our small earnings.



On Saturday we had a huge Thanksgiving dinner put on by Peace Corps. Everyone brought their favorite dished. They cooked 10 turkeys! I baked two banana chocolate cakes. I had to decorate it for Thanksgiving!



Also, we received a gift from our first blog fan! It was such a great surprise! Some of our PCV friends that live north of us passed on a present for me and Justin. The present was from a co-worker of theirs and a fan of our blog. Thank you very much for your gifts! We appreciate it very much!




Then Monday-Friday all Peace Corps teachers traveled to a resort in the mountains just outside of UB. We had a week long training there. The view was amazing. Here are some pictures of our resort and the view.



Then finally, we spent last weekend in UB again with our friends. We stayed in a Guesthouse (Narantuul Hotel drained us of money, but this guesthouse was homey and the bed was so comfortable.) I never wanted to get out of bed. It was the first time I had slept on a mattress since we got to Mongolia (Narantuul had mattresses, but they were as hard as rock!). It felt like I was sleeping on a cloud. Oh, I miss it already! Here's a pic of our tiny Guesthouse room. This guesthouse also had a laundry service. So Justin and I washed all of the clothes we brought with us. It was washed by a real washing machine!!! There wasn't a dryer, so we had to hang dry all of our clothes. But we were just thankful that there was a washing machine!!! We haven't had washing machine washed clothes in over half year. Oh, the little luxuries!



These last several days have been so great. I had forgotten what it was like to be around friends/americans. It will be a while until Justin and I make it back to Ulaanbaatar though. The winter makes traveling tough. There aren't any roads, so we're riding buses on dirt and sand. We're thinking it won't be until this next summer when we will be able to go back. Gives us something to look forward to!