Sunday, January 30, 2011

Experience, Success, Learning, Love & Family

These are the things I strive for always. To me nothing else in this world matters. Sometimes I find myself so far, far away from my values. I get caught up in work, life...but mostly I get caught up in myself. Journaling really helps me to realize how far astray I am going, or helps me realize what is good in my life, or bad in my life. But, my favorite thing to do is to read. I have a handful of books that I take with me everywhere and read several times a year-- purely for inspiration. Some of these books have accompanied me to England for my grandfather's funeral, to college-- off on my own, on crazy roadtrips, they've been with me during ups and downs in my homelife and even across the world to Asia. I've always been really interested in experience. To some it is called adventures, but I like to experience. Experience helps me learn. It helps me learn more about this world, its people and life. In one of my favorite books called "Standing For Something" by Gordon B. Hinckley he says "...it is desirable to be informed, to be educated, to increase one's understanding about the world and its peoples."

Today, I was doing my laundry and was thinking how happy I am. I am very content handwashing my clothes, adding coal to the fire after every load, sweeping up coal and dung dust-- making my humble abode clean and presentable. It makes me happy. I feel that my life has been successful. I have been able to accomplish everything I've dreamed of. I am still dreaming and will never stop-- so I will always have something to strive for, something to make me feel this success. The best part of this is my husband. Our life goals are very similar and without him I wouldn't have been able to experience any of this.

Saturday, January 29, 2011

I found my dream home!


...and no it isn't a ger, nor is it in Mongolia (though that ger is a pretty shwanky ger!). If you know me then you know I am passionate about teaching. But if you know me WELL then you know how passionate I am about design. I have been an HGTV follower since I was in grade school. I have been dreaming of my dream home since I can't even remember. (Actually I remember very distinctly in 6th grade making a 6 page blueprint of my dream home... I still have it somewhere in a box in South Dakota.) I would LOVE to build my own home, but I just can't see myself doing that if there are perfectly good houses already built. I don't want to contribute to America's over-building. My dream now is to find a nice small run-down cottage with character somewhere and fix it up completely! I would customize every inch. I have saved pages and pages of fabrics I will want to use someday, paint colors, fixtures, furniture, etc.

Well, if you haven't found out by now-- PCVs have a lot of time on their hands. We do good work here. We're there for our teachers, our counter-parts, our students, we put in a lot of work and detail to lesson plans and activities, we mingle with co-workers after school hours to build relationships, we delegate assignments, and do many different assigments ourselves-- yet we still have time to kill. We don't have a tv, but we have plenty of books and the internet. So in our free time we are usually doing one or the other. And in my free time on the internet, I house hunt and research design. Yesterday I came across a real gem. I don't think I'll be able to find a house better than this one in a small town in north Texas. It's a got all the character I could dream of, including being a state historical marker. I doubt it will be on the market in another year and half for me to steal--but it gives me something to dream about. When I run long distances I keep my mind busy by designing homes. I find myself doing that here at night to help me fall asleep. We all have our obsessions. Mine is owning my perfect home.

Today is my sister's birthday! I hope you have a great day, Dora!

Mandalgov by Mornin'

I find myself singing a lot here in Mongolia, especially when doing chores. Washing the dishes, wiping down the table, hanging laundry, all tasks which seem to call for a song (I've found this doesn't translate to outside chores because the cold chokes off your voice within the first few words).

My playlist at the moment generally consists of songs about home (like "Songs About Texas" by Pat Green), songs of inspiration ("Don't Stop Believin'" Journey), or songs that have made the playlist through sheer winter-time, cabin fever, The Shining style insanity ("I Don't Wanna Wait" Paula Cole).

The other night I was singing a classic song, "Amarillo by Mornin'" by George Strait when I was inspired to imitate the great John Russell and adapt a classic about the homeland into a Mongolian hit. I call it, "Mandalgov by Morning."

Mandalgov by mornin', up through Omnogov
Everything that I've got, I burned in my stove
Well the sun'll be high in that Gobi sky, and I'll be hiding in my ger
Mandalgov by mornin', Mandalgov I'll be there

They took my wallet in UB, broke my shades in Uliastay
Lost my bag and a cell phone, somewhere along the way
The mikr's supposed to leave at 8, but I know they'll be late
And I'm hoping that driver ain't blind
Mandalgov by mornin', Mandalgov is on my mind

Mandalgov by mornin', up through Omnogov
Everything that I've got, I burned in my stove
Well, I'm monggui, but I've got all I need
I ain't rich, but lord I'm free
Mandalgov by mornin', Mandalgov's where I'll be
Mandalgov by mornin', Mandalgov's where I'll be

Mongolian Billboard Top 40 anyone? I think so.

Monday, January 24, 2011

When in Mongolia...

I have now been in Mongolia for 231 days. I'm not sure if assimilation has a feeling, but I think there are certainly indicators. For instance, I have had very strong indications such as dreaming in Mongolian, half of which I still don't understand. I've also had more subtle indications like hearing Mongolian associated terms in song lyrics ("I'm going to the Gobi" or "...everyone was wearing a del.")

But I think beyond dreams and audial hallucinations, I have more concrete and real indications. For instance I have come to except the fact that my Monday afternoon teachers lesson/ meeting will always be pre-empted by something else. I suppose making my teachers explain to me the excuse every week in English is a productive, if not first-choice, alternative. Or 50% of the time one of our town's three ATMs will be broken, usually the one I go to first.

What's even more amazing is the stride that things are taken with by Mongolians. They have a pace that is still at times a mystery to me. They all seem to have a clear idea of when it is ok to be late, and when it is not. I generally show up to things at the appointed times, only to have to wait half an hour before I have any company. At the same time, I have shown up 15 minutes late to a meeting and been the very last person. So much for Western punctuality.

But it's almost as if Mongolians have some sort of internal clock that distinguishes tasks that require urgency, and those that don't. Maybe by this time next January, I will have mastered Mongolian Standard Time myself, until then I'll just have to continue hurrying up to wait.

Sunday, January 23, 2011

Military Concert



On Thursday night Justin and I were given tickets to watch a traveling Military Concert. This was the first time that they have come to our town of Mandalgovi. It was a big event. There was a lot of singing, dancing, playing instruments and even a magic show.

We were late to the event so we did not have seats. We stood in the back and watched the performances. They did a great job. One thing I have to say about Mongolian concerts is that they are all very similar. The same traditional songs are sung, same dance routines are danced and same intrumentals are played at every concert. Everything is beautiful, but I find it interesting that there isn't a lot of individualism when it comes to the arts.

When we walked in (late) I noticed a lot of heads were turned and more interested in why two white people were in their local theater than in the performances. It was oversold. There were kids sitting on the walls separating the seats and aisle. I liked watching the audience and feeling how far away I am from what I am used to in the states. It was just a really neat experience. Unfortunately we left the concert earily because my feet were KILLING me! We walked about a mile to the theater and I had heels on (I had been wearing them all day), then not being able to sit in the theater didn't help.

Here are some highlights from the concert: A man playing the Murin Khuur and a woman singing a Mongolian traditional song.


Making Buuz




Last week Justin and I were invited to our neighbor's house to help them make buuz (pronounced: boadz). They had several other people over helping them make their buuz for Tsagaan Sar. Each family makes about 1,000-2,000 of these meat filled pot stickers for this holiday. One tradition is to put a coin in one of the buuz and whoever eats that buuz is supposed to have good luck for the new year. During Tsagaan Sar you go to one house/ger to the next and visit family, friends and co-workers. This holiday lasts for 3 days. Day one is reserved for family members, day 2 is for visiting co-workers and day three is open for anyone to visit (friends). I hear we'll be averaging about 8 houses a day and that we'll stay at each home for about 45 mins-1 hr. The tradition is the same in each home: say your traditional Tsagaan Sar greeting, eat buuz, drink milk tea, drink fermented horse or camel milk (airag), and drink vodka, then you're on to the next ger to do the exact same thing all day long. I am pretty nervous. This holiday probably has the most traditions out of all the Mongolian holidays and I am nervous I will forget to do something or say something that I am supposed to say.

Here are a couple videos of me and Justin at our neighbor's house making Buuz:





Well today was a beautiful day, despite it being in the -20's. Mongolia is a very beautiful country. I love the stillness of winter. The cool, crisp air is really refreshing at times...mostly when the wind isn't blowing. It is just beautiful. I cannot wait for the summer, though! I love the green, green hills and open space with such wide blue cloudless skies. It's amazing. I can't even begin to discribe the stars, you just wouldn't understand unless you've seen it for yourself. I am from Texas and the stars at night are big and bright deep in the heart of Texas...but Texas has NOTHING on Mongolian stars.

Monday, January 17, 2011

Frozen things

1. my nose
2. my fingers
3. my toes

Just kidding (kinda). Here are some pictures of some real frozen things:



So here's a funny story. Last night Justin and I were picking up a few items at this one store. There were many people there and the woman behind the counter was really busy, so Justin and I looked around at what they had while we waited. And. I. Found. Beans!!!! Dried red beans and black beans! I was starting to think that Mandalgovi was turning into a mini UB because we can now find chicken and tuna regularly here. It was finally our turn to be served and we asked for 1 kilo of the red beans and the lady said 'shish bish'--that they weren't beans. But I was pretty sure they were beans, I mean I was looking right at them. So I said, 'fine, half a kilo then'. Happy to have my beans, I watch the lady pour half a kilo into a bag on the scale, and as the beans fell from one bag to the other I then saw that they were 'shish bish'. They were not beans but candied peanuts. Trickster peanuts.


By the way, I did ask my teachers what they did when they wanted to relax. I set the tone for them and was like 'on days when you've just worked so much, you're tired and just want to unwind, what do Mongolian women do?' It was silent for a couple of seconds then one brave Mongolian said 'Cry'.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Hands say it all


Living in a ger is dirty work. Not only do you constantly smell like smoke (which I hate), your home is never clean (because of ash, soot, coal dust, etc), and your hands are ALWAY dirty. Running water is a novelty. I have to say that I don't wash my hands as much as I did in the states because we don't have running water-- but I do wash them, it's just that I wash them just to get them dirty again. I need to try to clean my dirt-stained hands. Yesterday a teacher took my hands and examined them closely-- under the nail and everything. Then she said "her nails are short because if they were long they would be dirty". I wiped my brow and let out a sigh having known that I passed a clean check. But today I kept my hands hidden because they are so dirty. And it's not that I don't wash my hands, it's just that the dirt gets under the skin and when your hands look dry and ashy already, dirt stains just stand out more. You can wash your hands all you want, but it won't wipe this dirt away...salts... that's what I need a homemade handscrub.

I wonder what the Mongolian equivelant of a hot bubble bath with aroma therapy salts, lighted scented candles and lavender and chamomile tea at hand is. I think I'll ask my teachers tomorrow what that is here. Anyway, that's what I'll have tonight.

Saturday, January 8, 2011

How do they do it?


I have found myself to be a little busier this semester than last semester. It is a good thing. The only bad side to it is that I now have to schedule in time for me to bake because some nights it's hard to muster up the energy to bake something once I've come home to a 20 degree ger, cleaned out the stove, got a nice fire going, cleaning the mess off the floor (from dung dust, coal dust, ash, soot, etc.). Yes, I know I need to bake to eat food and food equals energy--but when you're hungry you will eat anything...Man I miss my crock-potting days. Heck, I miss my microwaving days.

Justin and I used to have a microwave here in our ger. But during one visit from his school Director a couple months ago she asked why we had two ovens. We told her that one was a microwave and she said 'yes, why do you have two ovens?'...so days later a school worker showed up at our ger and took our microwave away because we didn't need 'two ovens'. Maybe she thought she was clearing out unnecessary items from our small ger to give us more space, or maybe she thought we were spoiled? I don't know. But I do know this: We do not have a microwave.

Now onto our stove. This stove never really was ours. It's our neighbors' that we've been 'borrowing'. It's been in our ger for about 90% of the time we've been here. However, there are days when they come and ask to use it...then the next day we ask for it back. Well, this week we have been without our stove. It has proven to be rather difficult. I don't know how other PCVs do it! How can you eat without a stove or a microwave?! Justin and I were able to survive like this the first two weeks we lived in Mandalgovi, but I can't even remember how we survived that long. (I do remember we made a pretty awesome pizza in our skillet, believe it or not-- I was really impressed with that). Anyway, I know it is possible, but it is not ideal. How can we survive without my yummy rolls, cinnamon rolls, biscuits, cookies, baked chicken? Well, more importantly-- WHAT WILL I DO WITH ALL MY TIME? Baking was really my escape.

Tsagaan Sar is coming up. It IS the biggest holiday in Mongolia by far. This is their celebration for the lunar New Year and I know our neighbors will be wanting their oven for preparation (they really plan ahead. Tsagaan Sar is Feb 3rd this year and people are starting to make Buuz on January 20. They make thousands of buuz. I'm not even kidding you...each family makes about 2,000 buuz).
Here are some buuz:


So to buy an oven, or not to buy an oven? 250,000 tgs is a lot of money. This is the debate right now in the Newberry Ger.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

A new year

You find yourself coming up with the most interesting thoughts and analogies when you have so much time to think. For instance, I have connected the troop surge in Iraq to a strategy for using trash in your fire. You have to overwhelm the dung and wood with a shock and awe of flammable rubbish in order to make it count. Also, I have calculated the seconds remaining in my service (2,788,992,000 as of the time of writing this blog).

I have also figured out that I spent more of 2010 in Mongolia than out of it. That's amazing to me. I answer all of the time how long ago I came to Mongolia and when I came, but I guess I never thought of it in terms of having spent the majority of last year here. I still feel like my service is just beginning. Especially when I do things like calculate the remaining seconds.

With that thought in mind, I also wonder whether I am doing enough here. Whether I am making a difference or just pissing away tax payer money. It also makes me think of my mistakes I've made here and whether I have learned from the mistakes I have already made (today for instance I bludgeoned myself in the head with the sharp end of an axe while bagging coal, what did we learn?). But I've also made far more grave mistakes than gashing my head with the corner of an axe blade, and I wonder if I have learned my lesson.

In Dallas, I was a mentor for 7 10th grade boys who were considered possibly at risk. Maybe I wasn't much of a mentor considering 2 of them got expelled before the end of the year, but I told both of them the exact same thing the day after their expulsion. The only bad mistakes are mistakes that we don't learn from. And so looking back on a year of mistakes, I wonder what have I learned? And what have I learned since June 3, 2010? Maybe not as much as I should, but I'm trying. To quote the great Samuel L. Jackson, "I'm trying real hard, Ringo."

And so looking forward to 2011, I'm hoping, strangely, (and with minimal damage) for more mistakes, but different mistakes. If we grow because of our mistakes, do we grow without them?