Monday, December 27, 2010

Shin Jil



I was dreading this party for so long. I was constantly thinking of excuses I could give to get out of going. But, I went....and I had a WONDERFUL time! It was amazing! It wasn't close to what I thought it would be. Yes, there was vodka going around the entire time and a whole lot of dancing--but no pressure involved. I love dancing the Mongolian waltz! I danced with several people, who were kind enough to teach me as we went. Justin and I learned how to Mongolian Waltz this summer, but I have since forgotten. It was so easy to just let your partner twirl you around in all of those circles and glide along the floor. I had so much fun. I don't think I've laughed so much without Americans present. It was a good thing.

We had the party in the school gym. My teachers let me know that normally you would have a Shin Jil party at a restaurant (fancier), but we have so many teachers that it was less expensive to host it ourselves. We had a tasty spread of food: apples, oranges, tomatoes, candy, dried fruit, juices, sausage, etc. Then our main course came out: CHICKEN! (another thing I was dreading was having to eat mutton-- as is normal at Mongolian gatherings). Then out came the dessert of ice cream and red berries. It was delicious. The tag on the outside says 'Merry Christmas 2011' but inside it says Happy New Year in Mongolian (one in the same).


We toasted the new year, and fireworks were set off inside, and then the dance began!
I took a picture of a teacher (who was the designated drink pourer)giving drinks to everyone. Notice how he touches his elbow while he gives the drink--a Mongolian tradition to show respect when you are giving (and receiving) a gift.





This is a picture of me and my hashaa mom (my neighbor). She is also my training manager at school. Her name is Oyuna.


I really had a great time and am so happy that I went. I feel like I got to know a lot of the teachers better and it was important for them to see that I am having a great time with them (I was!). I wish I could be Mongolian waltzing right now--spinning around on my ger floor. :) Happy New Year!

Merry Christmas!

We had a humble gathering at our ger on Christmas day. Megan (our sitemate) came over. She brought over some amazing pistachio biscotti that she had made. I will be bugging her for that recipe. She used pistachios from a package her mom sent to her, but I'm sure I can subsitute it with something else.

We made a great dinner of roasted chicken, mashed potatoes, green beans and rolls. Justin and I bought several cans of green beans while we were in UB. I think sadly we only have one can left...


I made christmas stockings for all of us! I made them out of posterboard and duct tape. We filled them with awesome candy and I put in a can of pepsi for each of us.



We all bought gifts for each other. It was wonderful being able to give gifts and receive gifts on Christmas Day.



All in all, it was a success! We had a great time hanging out together, talking, eating, laughing....Certainly doesn't compare to being home--but nonetheless, we had a great time!

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Here Comes Santa Claus!


For the past couple of weeks my English Club students have been learning about Christmas. They do not celebrate Christmas here. The closest holiday they have to Christmas is Shin Jil (New Year's). As described in my last post, they decorate Shin Jil with tinsel, Christmas trees, pictures of Santa (some people even dress up as Santa) and so on, so it looks very much like Christmas--but they are celebrating the new year. Therefore, most Mongolians will tell you that they know Christmas--but really they are refering to New Year's (they think it is one and the same). I thought I had it easy when I was teaching them about American Christmas traditions because they all seemed to know about it already. Then when I had them make Christmas cards they all wrote 'New Year' or 'Happy New Year' or 'Good luck New Year' etc. I decided that my next lesson will be more in depth to explain why we celebrate Christmas and the difference between that and New Year's.

That was an interesting lesson. I have been teaching my students the Christmas Hymn "Silent Night" (they LOVE to sing and want to learn many english songs). While the song was going on in the background I asked if they knew who Jesus Christ was. Some didn't and some only recognized his name when I said it in Mongolian. So then I put the two words together "Christ" and "Christ-mas" I heard a lot of oooooooooh's. A light bulb had turned on. I told them that Christmas is religous and it is celebrating Christ's birth-- not the new year. Obviously there is more history behind Christmas but I couldn't get into a deep conversation, nor a history lesson with them.

Now that they know the difference it is time to make decorations for the Christmas Party! We made a Christmas chain, Angels and snowflakes. For the Christmas chain they wrote on each strip what they wanted for Christmas. I was impressed that most of the things they wanted were not materialistic. They wanted peace, health, happiness, a cleaner environment, good health to friends, etc. So I told them (after they had written quite a few) that they could also say which THINGS they wanted. So as an example I went first and I wrote 'I want perfume for Christmas'. They all laughed like it was silly, but they got the hang of it. PS, I really do want perfume for Christmas. I miss the clean fresh scents!

The party went very well. We had it last night. My mom will be proud to know that I brought her Christmas Bingo set with me here. All students were to bring a small gift (worth less that 1000 Tugriks) and put it on a table where they were then numbered. Instead of raffling the gifts off, we played Christmas bingo a million times until every student won a gift. It was a good way to teach them holiday nouns and explain other traditions (such as stockings). We then sang Silent Night. I used the Peter Breinholt version (beautiful!). The students were still struggling, but we sang it a few times to get it down. After the singining we ate and danced.


Meanwhile, the teachers had their own table. We drew names a couple of weeks ago and bought a gift worth up to 10,000 tugiks for the name we drew. Here is a picture of me giving my gift. When giving gifts you must give with both hands and receive it with both hands. (Or you can give it with your right hand only, while the left hand is touching your elbow and the receiver must also receive it in this way).

I received a nice, red, leather notebook, some pens and some hand lotion (that I did desparately need!). One Christmas party down and one more to go.

Monday, December 20, 2010

What is American Traditional Clothing?

Tonight one of my students came over to my ger to talk. She wanted to practice her speaking skills because soon she will have a speaking exam. I asked her basic questions, 'What's your name, How old are you, What is your favorite subject', etc. Then we just got to talking about other things. She asked me if I owned Mongolian traditional clothing (a dell) and I said yes. Then she asked what American traditional clothing looked like. I was stumped. Then Justin (who was making dinner in the background) yelled 'blue jeans!'. It is true. We've been wearing those comfy second layer of skin for a long time. Then she asked about American traditional food. Hot dogs? Hamburgers? Meetgui (I don't know).

The countdown for Christmas is here. Mandalgovi will have a humble get together at the Newberry Ger. 2 out of 5 of us are missing (1 of our sitemates is in UB working--bummer-- and the other is in the States on Medical leave--also bummer). I am excited to roast some chicken, mash some potatoes and bake a pie!



Now, there are actually 2 countdowns going on. One is to the best Holiday ever (Christmas-- only 5 more days) and the other is for a day I am dreading. Shin Jil (6 more days). I know I probably offended a great deal of people but I am just not looking forward to this party. Shin Jil (meaning New Year) is just what you think it is, except in Mongolia they decorate New Year's with Christmas decorations-- even Santa has an appearance (but it's nothing at all like Christmas, so it's kinda just there to mock you). Each organization puts on a huge Shin Jil party and I've heard they can last up until 6am the next morning. It is drinking vodka, dancing, drinking more vodka and dancing some more. Now, to some this sounds like a dream come true, but there are two things you need to know about me: I don't drink AND I don't dance. I'm lame. I know. So why am I even going to this party? 1)I do want to go. I want to experience new things and live a little, I can't stay shut up in my ger all the time. 2) There are 3 major holidays in Mongolia and this is one of them. If I didn't participate it would be disrespectful-- and like #1 said, I do want to go. 3) This goes along with #1, but I can't say I've experienced Mongolia and lived like the locals if I don't celebrate Shin Jil with them. And 4) I am in total obligation.

This Shin Jil party that I am going to is put on by my school. Spouses/family aren't invited to organization parties like they are in the states. Therefore, Justin cannot go with me. If you know me, you know I'm a very shy person without my hubby. But I'll survive. This party is on December 26th. Expect an update by December 27th.

For now, I am keeping it out of my mind and focusing on Christmas! I will be watching A Muppet's Christmas Carol and wishing I was singing the songs along with my family at home (one of our crazy traditions).

Friday, December 17, 2010

You know it's a good day when...

...Your first fire of the morning starts on the first try. Especially when you have to get up early and leave in a hurry...oh yeah, AND it's literally below freezing in your ger.

...You walk into a class that you are dreading (because you are substituting-- solo teaching-- and they are pubescent 9th graders)and the students start to give high fives to each other and race to see who will sit in the front row. They are happy the 'amerik bagsh' (american teacher) will be teaching them today.

...Your students (who are primary teachers and did not know any English prior to my teaching them) find you in the hallway to tell you that English class will have to be canceled because of a mandatory primary teacher's meeting-- all in English. (It was very confusing, but they got the point across).

...You find a Hershey's Kiss in your purse!!!! (You can't buy Hershey's kisses here...One of the teachers brought them back from her trip to S. Korea and I forgot I had it).

...You realize it's Friday.

...Because it's Friday, you realize that it's Pizza night!!!

...You've been stuck inside the school all day and get a text message from a PCV friend asking about the current heat-wave. So when you step outside you can immediately feel that the temperature is above freezing! There is hope that I can survive this winter!

...Stepping outside you realize it's warm enough that you do not need to wear a hat! I almost felt like I was showing too much skin not having a hat and hood on.

And finally:

You know it is a good day when 11pm comes and goes without a neighbor coming in for an awkward conversation that late in the night (for the past 2 nights at 11pm on the dot our neighbor has come over to sit in silence and we exchange a couple sentences before they leave abruptly...probably mid sentence and we are left in utter confusion).

Today was a good day (yamar sahan odor way!). I felt needed and I felt useful. And now I feel tired. Only 8 more sleeps 'til Christmas! sahan amraray.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Unrecognizable

Last night, when I got home from school, I started taking off my boots, then my fluffy socks, then my knee socks and when I got to my main socks I saw that not only did I have mismatched socks on, but one was inside out. Wait-- it gets better (or worse). Not only did I wear mismatched, inside out socks all day...but for 3. There. I said it. 3 days. I've worn the same socks, inside out and mismatched for 3 days. (It's been so cold that you wouldn't want to take your socks off!) Coming to this realization made me run for my journal and open it up. I read my last several entries, then read the very beginning of my journal which was while we were still in America. I was looking for something. I was wondering when I started to become who I am today. No way, in America, would I wear mismatched socks. No way, in America, would I have not noticed that one was inside out while the other was worn correctly. And NO WAY, in America, would I have gone 3 days without changing my socks. Do you want to know the best part? Day 4. Yep. Today, I wore my mismatched, inside out dirty socks for a 4th and final day. OMG, I was such a neat-freak in America that if, by chance, I had put one sock on inside out I would have IMMEDIATELY changed it because of how much it would have bugged me just to know that one sock is inside out and one is not.

So, there I am on my bed reading my journal, then glancing around my ger to see what else was out of my character. I have changed. Now, to add to this, I received an amazing package today from my uncle in England. Inside the package was a picture of me and my husband at my cousin's wedding (along with many other great things!). My hair was extremely short, but well kept...and I had highlights! My make up was done beautifully. I hardly recognized myself. I don't know who she is anymore. She isn't me. Not at this time in my life anyway. Being here has definitely made me a stronger person. Mongolians live a hard life. Yet, they are so happy. Today I went to a store and the shopkeeper was singing a well know Mongolian song. Then in walks another man who immediately starts joining the shopkeeper in song. It was amazing to see. You don't do that in America.

Maybe when I go back to the states I will try being my old me again. But I know I will forget to flush the toilet at times, or I will laugh at the ease of twisting on a faucet and magically getting hot, drinkable water out of the tap-- so I won't be my old me completely, a part of Mongolia will be with me and I want to take it home with me.

But PLEASE, when I come home, if you see me wearing the same socks day in and day out TELL me to change my socks! Geez. I won't have that in the states!

Saturday, December 11, 2010

Missing Home




Life isn't always sunny and warm. In fact, for the past several days it has been the exact opposite. Cold and dark. We are averaging only about 8 hours of full daylight (not to mention I live in a ger without any windows, so when the sun's not shining my ger is a very, very dark place) and the temperatures dip into the negatives daily now (not counting the windchill...and there is always wind). Anyway, I could go on with the woes of my life. But there is no point in doing that. The holiday season has arrived and there is much to be thankful for! One thing I am ecstatic about is the Peace Corps Volunteer that lived in our ger before us left us a Christmas tree!! It is stored in a closet at my school, so you better believe that on Monday afternoon I will be carrying a box that has "christmas" handwritten on the side! Justin and I made a great purchase at the Black Market in Ulaanbaatar (where we purchased our hats and his coat)...we bought a silver tinsel garland. It is currently draped over our 'closet'. Christmas music has constantly been playing in the background of our home. Christmas movies are beginning to be watched. And best of all (my favorite anyway) the baking has begun-- well, it never ended, but the 'Christmas' baking has begun. Despite all this I miss home. I am so very lucky to have Justin here with me. Peace Corps Volunteers are very strong people, you have to be. But I have it easy because I was able to take my best friend with me through this crazy journey.

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

What a Wonderful Life




Let's start way back. On November 25th, I was told to wear my Mongolian Dell (Mongolian traditional clothing)to school. This day was 'National Wear Your Dell Day', so I was told. I went to school and saw that everyone had participated! It was wonderful to see all the young students, older students, and even teachers flaunting their winter dells. I've only had the opportunity to wear my dell 3 times now. But I hear as the new years comes I will have many, many more chances.



Justin and I got back yesterday from a 10 day trip to Ulaanbaatar. It was amazing! We left Friday (Novemeber 26). Some friends and us splurged and booked a fancy hotel for 3 nights. I was so excited to see all of them! Justin and I got to the hotel first, so it was awesome hugging them all one by one when they traveled in. One of my friends trains didn't get to UB until 6am Saturday morning. I felt like a mother staying up until all of her little ones are safe under one roof. I was so happy to be there with all of them. We stayed on the 11th floor of the Narantuul Hotel. Here are some pics from the 11th floor view.



While we were in UB we did a lot of shopping. UB has almost (*almost*) anything you want. We were sure to buy some real Heinz 57 ketchup in a glass bottle (Justin's favorite), some brown sugar, some tinsel to decorate our ger with, some green beans-- GREEN BEANS!!, and we found Justin an awesome winter hat and coat. I loved Justin's hat so much that I went and bought one later. Both fur hats and Justin's coat cost a total of 55,000 Tugriks. That's only about $50. But it all actuality is a lot for our small earnings.



On Saturday we had a huge Thanksgiving dinner put on by Peace Corps. Everyone brought their favorite dished. They cooked 10 turkeys! I baked two banana chocolate cakes. I had to decorate it for Thanksgiving!



Also, we received a gift from our first blog fan! It was such a great surprise! Some of our PCV friends that live north of us passed on a present for me and Justin. The present was from a co-worker of theirs and a fan of our blog. Thank you very much for your gifts! We appreciate it very much!




Then Monday-Friday all Peace Corps teachers traveled to a resort in the mountains just outside of UB. We had a week long training there. The view was amazing. Here are some pictures of our resort and the view.



Then finally, we spent last weekend in UB again with our friends. We stayed in a Guesthouse (Narantuul Hotel drained us of money, but this guesthouse was homey and the bed was so comfortable.) I never wanted to get out of bed. It was the first time I had slept on a mattress since we got to Mongolia (Narantuul had mattresses, but they were as hard as rock!). It felt like I was sleeping on a cloud. Oh, I miss it already! Here's a pic of our tiny Guesthouse room. This guesthouse also had a laundry service. So Justin and I washed all of the clothes we brought with us. It was washed by a real washing machine!!! There wasn't a dryer, so we had to hang dry all of our clothes. But we were just thankful that there was a washing machine!!! We haven't had washing machine washed clothes in over half year. Oh, the little luxuries!



These last several days have been so great. I had forgotten what it was like to be around friends/americans. It will be a while until Justin and I make it back to Ulaanbaatar though. The winter makes traveling tough. There aren't any roads, so we're riding buses on dirt and sand. We're thinking it won't be until this next summer when we will be able to go back. Gives us something to look forward to!

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Baby, It's Cold Outside.

I really can't stay
(but baby it's cold outside)
I've got to go away
(but baby it's cold outside)
This evening has been
(been hoping that you'd drop in)
So very nice
(I'll hold your hands, they're just like ice)
My mother will start worry
(beautiful, what’s your hurry)
My father will be pacing the floor
(listen to the fireplace roar)
So really I'd better scurry...

Baby, it's cold outside!


The Christmas Season cannot officially begin in the Newberry home until after Thanksgiving (even right after Thanksgiving dinner is considered cheating to Justin)-- Justin won't allow it. I see his point, but I yearn for those Christmas tunes. They take me back to a magical time when I was 5 and naive. My mind was open to so many things, and I was in a safe haven--nothing to worry about and everything to explore. I think my life is still as adventurous, but I do take caution a little more than I'd like to.

Anyway, I brought Christmas into our ger a little early this year. I was sitting at our desk/vanity creating Thanksgiving cards to give to my teachers. I had my iTunes playing in the background (Norah Jones, I love her), chicken roasting in the oven, and a glorious apple scented candle that my sisters sent to me in a package (THANK YOU!). Justin was still at school, so I had the ger to myself-- all 375 sq feet. Then all of a sudden the beautiful sound of Josh Groban's voice in 'Silent Night' started melting my heart. Usually if this happened (a Christmas song ventured its way into my iTunes playlist) I would immediately stop it and switch songs...You don't want to ruin the magic of the Christmas Season before its time! But, this instance, I let it slide. It's close enough, isn't it? My ger was warm and cozy, I was creating holiday cards in the spirit of giving. Silent Night chose the best moment to pop up on my iTunes. It was magical.


Then, I heard Justin's footsteps in the sand outside our ger and I quickly changed it back to Norah. Only 2 more days and I'm safe to listen to it all I want!

Well, the low temperature tonight is -11. It was a pretty rough walk home from school this evening. I noticed at about 5:30pm (when most of the teachers start to leave) that they were bundling up quite sufficiently (even more so than usual). They did so almost as if it were an art. I was mesmerized at how skillful they were with a scarf: wrap around the neck once, then the head, then leave enough just under your chin so you can pull it up over your nose once you're outside in the blistering wind. (And yes, the wind is blistering. While Justin and I were at the showers today he saw a child with 'rosy red' cheeks and commented on how red they were. The poor kid's cheeks weren't rosy from the heat of the shower, but were blistered and wind chapped. It's brutal out there.) I'm sure I will learn plenty from the masters for winter has yet to officially begin.

Justin and I will leave to the big city (Ulaanbaatar) in 2 days (Friday morning). Peace Corps has a nice Thanksgiving potluck dinner for any and all PCVs who decide to travel that way. Of course we're going! There will be turkey!! Also all of our friends will be there--whom we consider family. We went through a lot this summer during our Training, and a handful of them Justin and I are very close with. It will be exciting to see these amazing people again!

After our Thanksgiving weekend, Peace Corps also has a 1 week training for all Teachers. So Justin and I will be away from home for a little over a week. We've already been advised to get rid of all liquids in our ger. Anything we want to save needs to be put in the fridge (lotions, contact solution, nail polish, shaving cream, shampoos, etc) or else we will be coming home to frozen supplies. Justin and I have already seen ice creep its way into our ger in our water buckets...How frightening.

Well, here's an early Happy Thanksgiving from us to you! Cahan amraray!

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Potty Humor

by Justin



Last night Ashlie went out to a birthday party with some of her co-workers. In Mongolia it is generally not usual for (at least among our schools) spouses to attend work related social functions, so I got to stay home. Friday night at the Newberry ger is pizza night and I wasn't going to let Ashlie's absence change that. The difference in Mongolia is that you have to make the pizza from scratch. It's not bad if you don't mind substituting mozzarella with processed singles. So I started making my pizza. It should also be noted that making pizza dough is a very messy process and it is even more difficult to clean without running water or someone to help you.

During this whole pizza making excursion I began to feel the urge to urinate. However, as I mentioned before it is very messy and difficult to clean without running water, so I just plowed ahead, kneading and mixing whilst crossing my legs. The urge continued to grow, but I was so close to finishing that I didn't want to wash myself off, go to the outhouse, then come back in, get my hands messy again, and have to wash off all over again. So I held it. Finally, I finished the dough, made the pizza, hastily threw it in the oven, then began washing the dough off of my hands all while doing a faster, more elaborate version of the pee pee dance. I ran out of the ger, my hands still dripping with water.

I failed to mention my footwear. I was wearing my leather, Mongolian houseshoes. I'm sure everyone at some point has slid across a kitchen or dorm hallway in their worn out house shoes, with the slick soles just gliding across the hard floor. I had the misfortune of dicovering that these soles have the same effect on soiled, wooden planks. I dashed into the outhouse.

As my right foot slipped over the wooden board, saturated with years of poorly aimed urine, I felt my body falling through the hole, into the poo pit. I had enough time during the fall to process that I was indeed falling into the hole. My good friend and fellow Peace Corps volunteer Rob, once described falling into the outhouse hole as a dealbreaker. That at that point, his volunteer service would cease, and he would quietly go home. I began to vaguely recall these words and ponder them when my body, genitalia first, crashed to the floor. You see, outhouse floor holes are merely a board removed from the floor, thereby allowing enough room for one's feces to fall through, but not one's entire body. I did find out it was wide enough though for about half of my body. And so I lay there, leg dangling through the floor, hovering a foot or two above a frozen pile of crap, face smooshed onto the aforementioned urine soaked floor. Perhaps worst of all, my Mongolian house shoe was now the domain of the poo pit, as it had fallen off of my foot.

A quick side note, I retrieved the shoe this morning using some wire and a long cardboard tube. I had no intention of wearing it, I just did not want to be reminded of this shameful event everytime I had to relieve myself. It was much the same as a defeated army trying to retake its captured standard.

Meanwhile, the urge to pee had left me and was replaced by an intense pain that was originating in my crotch and radiating throughout most of my body. I managed to pick my self up and do what I had set out to do in the first place. Afterwards,with as much dignity as I could muster under the circumstances, I waddled back to the ger one-shoed, with a cut forehead, cut thumb, cut scrotum, bruised buttocks, bruised testicle, and most of all a bruised ego.

Friday, November 12, 2010

Quick Thoughts and Stories

by Justin

Stories

Dune

We ran out of water this week. Normally, when we run out of water it's no thang, we just go next door, fill up our 20 gallon osny sow (Mongolian for water container in transliterated Mongolian)and we're back in business. However, due to a string of events beyond our control, we were without water for roughly 36 hours. It all began on Tuesday when our haasha mother told Ashlie she was going to UB for the weekend. Irrelevant you are saying to yourself, but wait, I remember from jr. high English this is called foreshadowing. Then, on Tuesday night Ashlie said she was tired and didn't really feel like doing dishes. Hurray I thought, no dishes means I don't have to get water tonight. I would just get it in the morning. But by the time I got up, our haasha mother was gone to UB and her husband was at work. So morning turned to afternoon and afternoon turned to evening, but still no EB (I am trying to keep him anonymous because our blog has a really big following here in Mandalgovi). Here's where the UB trip becomes important. Normally, both of them would be home by that time on a Wednesday night. But because she was gone to UB, EB did as many husbands do when the wife is away, he went out with the boys. He returned late that night, clearly under the influence, and loudly shouted "Yagat!?" (why?!) Not really sure what this was in reference to, but it is slightly humorous. So I thought, well I'll catch him in the morning. But he was up and at 'em pretty early considering the previous evening's outing and was again gone in the morning. So we sat there, trying to conserve every drop of moisture. We ate the only things that we could make without water. PB and J and grilled cheese sandwiches. FOOLS! The salty peanut butter gave me an insatiable thirst, but alas there was nothing to drink. I layed on the bed tossing back and forth. I kept imagining I was a character from the book Dune (it's a sci-fi book about this planet with very little water where the people have to wear suits that prevent their bodies from losing water for any of you non-nerds reading this). I thought I was going to die. My mind raced. What if he is gone to the countryside? What if he isn't coming back? What will we do? We're doomed I tell ya, DOOMED! Then Ashlie suggested we just go buy some bottled water. Oooohhh yeah, that's why I'm married. So we did, we made dinner, then we rehydrated. Then EB came home and we refilled. The end.

Pigs

There is a family of pigs in our town. The only pigs I've ever seen in Mongolia. The piglets have recently come of age and have begun roaming the town like their parents. The other day I was walking home from school and I saw the little piglets foraging near the playground by our house. I don't know why, but an urge came over me. Maybe it is the lack of pork products in my diet, maybe it is my inner child, maybe an inner sadist, but for whatever reason I had an urge. I stopped and looked around for possible witnesses. Seeing no one in the vicinity, I began walking towards the little swine. Slowly at first, stealthily even. I crept nearer and nearer. My stride lengthened, my pace quickened. Before I knew it I was chasing them across the alley, listening to them squeal as they ran away with evil delight. They ran across the playground and I stopped. Smirking and smiling with satisfaction, I began to stroll back towards my ger. As I walked by an apartment building, I heard a quick tapping at a window. I looked up and saw nothing. I looked back down and resumed walking. I heard the tapping again. I looked up and saw a child of maybe 5 or 6 or 7 looking down at me from his apartment window. My instant reaction was that he, like many of the children, just wanted to say hello to the American, so I waved. But he did not smile, or wave back. He just stared at me, with blank, expressionless eyes. Oh no, I thought, he saw what I did. He saw me chase the pigs. I began to walk faster in my shame, still looking back over my shoulder. Then as I was about to turn the corner, I saw him hold up his index and middle fingers in front of his eyes. He had seen me and was letting me know it. I'm not sure what exactly it was he saying to me, but the combination of his expression and gestures made me think he was saying, "We don't take kindly to foreign, pig-chasing scum 'round 'ere. Watch your ass." I will no longer chase pigs, or livestock of any sort in Mongolia.

The Shower House

Today was, in weather terminology, shitty. The increased frequency of "shitty" days this time of year is in direct correlation with the general negativity with which the climate of Mongolia is viewed. This also happens to be, as you faithful followers of the blog already know, my favorite day of the week. Shower day! So, Ashlie and I went through our morning rituals, bundled up, and headed for the shower house. We walked, heads down into a stiff Arctic wind blowing about 30 mph. It must have been into negative double digits with the wind chill. We walked silently, but resolutely into the beast, knowing that steamy, liquidy, cleansing salvation lay but a mere 10 minutes away. We made it. Strode triumphantly to the front door, pulled and... son of a bitch. Locked. About that time a Mongolian woman walked up to the door and pulled on the handle (because apparently we humble, simple Americans were standing in the cold because we are unfamiliar with the concept of, you know, pulling on the handle). She then looked at a paper taped to the window and said, "Arone nigen dzock" (11:00). I looked at my phone. 10:30. Damn. So we stood there, backs against the wall, waiting for the propietor of the establishment when up walked another young woman. I was familiar with this particular woman. She proceeded to talk to us rapidly in Mongolian and pick hairs off of our jackets, button our buttons, and dusts off our backs. In the midst of the grooming process, she noticed an orange tag stuck to Ashlie's shoe laces. This was no ordinary orange tag though. This was a tag that was put on Ashlie's shoe in March when we ran our marathon. A tag that says 'I am no mere mortal, but a demi-god who has ran 26.2 miles.' However, and understandably, Mongolians are unfamiliar with this concept. She pointed at it and said, "Mohai." (ugly). Ashlie said under her breath, "Please don't tear it off." At which point the woman bent down and tore it off. Ashlie then said, "Please don't throw it away." At which point, as if mockingly on cue, the woman threw it away. The woman then continued on with her conversation, but Ashlie never took her eye off of it. Soon after another woman drove up and distracted the talkative young lady, Ashlie took off running across the dirt parking lot and victoriously picked the little tag out of a tumbleweed. Disaster averted, athletic immortality resurrected.

Quick thoughts

*People in Mongolia walk noticably faster during the winter.

*Don't grab onto your metal out-house handle in the winter with wet hands.

*For unexplained reasons watching steam come off of my bodily functions while using the restroom has become a reasonable substitute for reading magazines.

That is all.

Mongolian Traditional Medicine


As I stated in my last post-- I woke up earlier this week with a shocking pain in my back. Justin had to help me get out of bed. It was in the mid section of my back. I don't know what could have caused it (except I must have slept wrong or something, because it was completely fine the day before). I had to go home from school early so I could lay down, because sitting up and walking hurt. The next day, my back felt better, but still hurt enough that I needed help bending over and such. Well on day 3 of my backache a teacher told me about a Mongolian Traditional Doctor. She took me to her and they treated my back with "cupping". I only had one cup placed on my back (the mid section where it hurt). All of the air was suctioned out of the cup, my skin was raised into the jar and was purple (almost black) and wrinkly from lack of oxygen. They left it on there for about 15 mins. It didn't hurt at all, in fact, it felt relaxing. After the cup was removed I had a raised, purple cirlce on my back (my war wound) to show Justin. Now it is day 5 of my backache and the circle is still there, pretty dark. I hear it will go away after a few days.

As for my backache. It still hurts. A lot. BUT-- it doesn't hurt in my mid section anymore, it has moved up to my shoulder area. So I wonder if the cupping really did work??

Pictures of my back after cupping:

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Firsts but not lasts cont'd...

1) Inhaled about a pound of powdered bleach-- wouldn't recommend it. Our school 'disinfected' everything by setting powdered bleach bombs in all the classrooms. I'm not sure exactly how they did it, but when I went back to school on Monday EVERYTHING was covered in this chalky powder. No one could sit or use the tables. I spent most of my day today scrubbing walls, chairs, tables, etc-- trying to get all that powder off. Sweeping it up was the worst. It just created a cloud of bleach that you couldn't get away from. My throat hurts.

2) Mastered biscuit making. I can whip up a perfectly golden, crispy on the outside yet warm, soft and flaky on the inside scone. Or biscuit. I can't decide what to call it. I mentioned this before, but I am torn between being a southern bell, or a british bird. Either way, they are melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Especially with honey...or gravy...

3) Haven't washed my hair in about 7 days. That might be too much information-- but it's true. We are out of water and our neighbors have been gone. We use their plumbing to retrieve water. Hopefully they will be back soon. I've already tried every page in the book on how to get rid of greasy lookin' hair. But, learn from me, the only way to accomplish a non-greasy look-- you. need. water.

4) Broke out my long warm pea-coat today for the first time. The high is in the 20's-- but it's another one of those miserably windy days, so I suspect the wind chill brings it much lower than that.

5) Went to see a Traditional Mongolian Medicine Doctor for my back. The other day (Monday) I woke up in the middle of the night because of an intense pain in my back. Then the next day I could hardly move it. I took some pain relievers and by the end of the day I was moving (but not much). Everyday since then it has been getting a little better. I'll leave my experience at the Traditional Mongolian Medicine Doctor's office for my next post. I need to gather some pictures you might enjoy. Pretty interesting...

6) Watched 5 movies in 2 days. I'm sure Justin can top me in this. I am not a movie watcher (even in Mongolia) but when I started watching one movie I didn't realize how well it magically took you away to that specific place and time. I had to watch 2 others immediately after because the magic was so intense. Then after the 3rd I had to go to the bathroom-- put my jacket on, trudge through the intense cold (and snow) to the dilapidated jorlon with my head lamp on (what? it's dark out there, I don't want to fall in the hole.), squat, then come back to my 50 degree warm ger (and yes 50 degrees IS warm-- when outside temperatures are significantly lower). Magic gone.

7) Had a great conversation with an Oriflame consultant at school (Oriflame is like Avon). The conversation was in Mongolian! It makes me happy when I can converse with someone longer than 5 mins and to be understood! Hopefully these conversation will last much longer and my vocab count can rise to more than 100 words.

8) And last but not least-- As of today, Justin and I have officially made it through our 1st semester of school in Mongolia (they have 4 semesters-- so we're a quarter of the way done with this school year!). Since the semester is over, we have a 10 day break from school. Housework is in order (ger work). I spent today (my 1st day off) cleaning classrooms. (The janitor looked at me funny when I walked into school with my *own* rubber gloves.:). Tomorrow I will again see the Traditional Mongolian Medicine Doctor and then rest a bit by cleaning my home.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Just a Dream

Last night I had the pleasure of dreaming a marvelous dream! I was walking down the glossy (so glossy you could see your reflection), tiled aisle of Wal-Mart. I remember saying 'Oh, it is so clean! Everything is in order! I know where everything is!' Then I actually looked at the shelves and they contained only the food available here in Mongolia. Same ol' root vegetables, rice, noodles, dairy products...Regardless of what that dream Wal-Mart had in stock, I was happy to be there still. Then some zombie started chasing me and the dream went on...


Anyway, Justin is totally right about dairy products here. If there isn't a picture on it, I don't buy it. It can say the word cow all it wants, but if there is no picture-- no deal. He mentioned buying some sausage (called 'heyam' in Mongolian) that had the words saying it was made from pig...and there were actually cartoon pictures of pigs on the label--but once opened we realized that it very well might have been pig, but it was not a part of a pig we were going to eat & expired at that! The meat was black. Probably blood and intestines. Dzolzig got a good meal that night. BTW, Justin didn't mention that the yogurt his school director gave us was expired--by two months. I use it in my baking--just mix a little bit with water and make a milk substitute from it.

Speaking of baking. I made some pretty yummy rolls last night from scratch. It was a perfect Saturday. No school sports competitions going on, no unexpected yard chores, no real work--just my Community English class that Justin helps me teach. We made our way to the class (it was 10:45am, snowy and dreary-- so perfect for Justin, he loves it) and none of my students showed up-- so we went home, put on a huge pot of vegetable soup, had a fire going and I made my rolls. Then we just ate soup and rolls open bar all day long. It was nice and toasty and cozy. Justin made the yummy soup. It was delicious.


So about a month ago Justin winterized our ger. In order for a ger to be ready for winter two layers of felt should be put on the ger, then a skirt needs to be placed around the bottom on the outside, then dirt needs to cover the skirt (to cover holes/cracks) and a ping is attached(a small detachable room that connects to the door of the ger, it is used to store fuels, a freezer, and to block as much wind as possible from coming inside the ger). We still do not have our ping up-- but I'm sure it will come soon, as the weather is dropping rather quickly.




So now that our ger is toasty, it keeps the warmth in pretty well. If you build an awesome fire your ger can get over 100 degrees inside!

Justin is outside of our ger trying to show the immense difference in temperature between outside our ger and the inside. Inside it is over 100 degrees, outside it is in the teens. His breath is showing, but my flash couldn't catch it.

Here's a picture of me doing laundry in our toasty ger. We've mastered making fires, now we need to master regulating a comfortable temperature-- because our ger is either 40 degrees or 100.


And finally, just some random pics of the Newberry Ger. I found another use for our indoor clothes line-- holiday decorations! (Oh! we learned last weekend that we can't really put our clothes on the outside line anymore-- they froze stiff. It was hilarious. You could hold our towels completely horizontal. Justin wanted to play sword fights...well that's nothing new.)


I went to one of the markets and found these adorable thingies. They are the cutest Cutie Pies I have ever seen. I love holiday clementines! I was surprised to be seeing ANY type of citrus-- I bought a kilo and eat about 6 a day. :)


I know I'm rambling, but just one more thing. I've learned that when I am not busy I tend to be more selfish. I think about what I could have been doing in the states, what Justin and I could have had, how normal our lives could be....I day dream. I think most people are like that. Usually we are too busy to think about ourselves because we are helping/serving others (and I think that's the way it should be). There is a quote that I have to repeat to myself when my attitude falls short of a serving attitude. "Forget yourself and get to work." told to Gordon B. Hinckley by his father--Bryant S. Hinckley. That quote seemed to straighten Gordon right up. I chose to come to Mongolia to help teach. And I don't regret coming here. But you know, the grass is always greener. One day I'll wake up in my later years and think all of this time in Mongolia was just a dream. But before that times come-- I will live it up here!